Plant, maintain, multiply, overwinter and more

Planting fuchsia properly

From the beginning / middle of May, shady to partially shaded, humid locations in the garden should be used for the fuchsia be reserved. Dig about 20 cm deep hollows here in the fresh, well-drained and nutrient-rich soil. There you insert the plants so deep that the soil initially reaches up to the lower pairs of leaves. As the season progresses, pile up the compost-enriched soil in proportion to the progress of the growth. This measure makes an important contribution to healthy and undamaged wintering.

Care tips

The professional care program for a fuchsia is based on a well-balanced package of measures. We have compiled all the relevant key points for you in the following overview:

• Ensure uniform soil moisture without causing waterlogging
• If the air is dry, shower with lime-free water in the morning or evening
• Weekly from April to September fertilize with compost or liquid fertilizer
• Consistently clean up what has withered and faded
• Bridge a summer break in bloom with a slight pruning
• FieldFuchsias pile up thick with leaves before winter; add pin twigs
• Shape and maintenance cut in early spring without cutting into the old wood

Cultivated in a planter, fuchsia move to semi-dark winter quarters in October / November. Beforehand, all withered flowers and yellowed leaves are removed. At a cool 10-12 degrees Celsius, water from time to time so that the root ball does not dry out.

Which location is suitable?

The fuchsia thrives healthily and freely in a shady to partially shaded location. Choose a warm, sheltered location without a cold draft. Likewise, the tropical beauty of flowers does not tolerate blazing sun or summer heat and reacts indignantly by refusing to display the flowers.
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What soil does the plant need?

The fuchsia gives its best in humus, well-drained and nutrient-rich soil. This is all the more true in fresh, moist soil that is not threatened by waterlogging. For cultivation in the bucket and Flower box(€ 35.85 at Amazon *) we recommend a mix of garden soil, compost and sand in equal parts. Alternatively, a high-quality and structurally stable potted plant soil with a low proportion of peat.

What is the best time to plant?

We recommend spring planting so that the conditionally hardy garden fuchsia can fully establish itself in the bed before winter. Put the young perennials in the ground from the beginning / middle of May at the earliest, provided that there are no longer any delayed ground frosts to be feared.

When is the flowering time?

The fuchsia unfolds its distinctive flowers with the long tube and the elegant, often differently colored petals and sepals from June to October. The flower inspires with a wide range of colors in white, red, pink, purple, violet and blue. Sometimes fuchsia take a break from blooming in the middle of summer. Don't let that confuse you. Simply cut back shoots that are too long to the first vital bud. The flower festival continues in no time at all.
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Cut fuchsia properly

A well-considered cut at the right time makes an important contribution to vitality and the ability to flower. How to properly cut the fuchsia:

• Relax every 2-3 weeks in April and May for richly branched growth
• Regularly clean withered flowers
• In the case of a summer pause in blooming, shorten branches that are too long to the first healthy bud
• Thin out in January and cut back the shoots by a third; if possible not into the old wood

Cut back fuchsias in the tub a little before putting them away by removing all withered flowers and yellowed leaves. Only in early spring does the subshrub get its topiary and is thinned out thoroughly. Each branch should start the new season with at least 2 buds.
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Watering fuchsia

Uniform soil moisture in combination with high air humidity motivates all fuchsia species and varieties to achieve maximum floral performances. Therefore, do not let the root ball dry out at any time. As soon as the surface has dried, pour moderately without causing waterlogging. In addition, pamper the tropical ornamental plant with a shower of lime-free water in the early morning or in the evening.

Fertilize fuchsia properly

Weekly doses of fertilizer are one of the pillars of the professional care program. From April to September you work ripe compost lightly into the soil in the bed and pour more. In the pot and balcony box, apply a commercially available liquid fertilizer for flowering plants every 8-10 days.

Overwinter

The winter protection of garden fuchsias begins with the planting by planting the root ball in a small hollow and a little deeper than in the nursery pot. In proportion to the growth, the small hollow is filled with substrate over the course of the summer. If winter is just around the corner, take these precautions in the bed for a healthy overwintering:

• Pile up the root disc 20-30 cm high with leaves, straw and brushwood
• Put spruce twigs around the crowns to protect against icy winds
• Only make a shape cut in February / March and thin out thoroughly

In pots or in the balcony box, you should clear the fuchsias as late as possible, because light frosts down to -3 degrees Celsius are tolerated and harden the plant. Remove all withered flowers and yellowed leaves as part of a slight pruning. In the slightly darkened room, the fuchsia overwinter at 10-12 degrees Celsius. Only water a little so that the root ball does not dry out. There is no fertilization during the winter. In March, the subshrub receives its central topiary and is carefully cleaned of dead wood, poor shoots and inward-facing twigs.
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Propagate Fuchsia

Both amateur gardeners and professional horticulturalists favor the cuttings method for propagating fuchsias. To do this, cut off non-flowering shoots with a length of 10-15 cm in early summer. In the lower half, all leaves are removed. Now fill small pots with peat sand in order to insert 1-2 cuttings into two-thirds each. In the partially shaded location at 18-20 degrees Celsius, the rooting progresses quickly. In addition, put a plastic bag over each pot, which is supported with matches, because the material must not touch the cuttings. The warm and humid microclimate also promotes root growth. Keep the substrate slightly moist and ventilate the hood daily.

Alternatively, put the cuttings in a glass of water to which you add a piece of charcoal to prevent rot. Once root strands with a length of 2-3 cm have formed, pot the cuttings in lean substrate. It is important to note that young outdoor fuchsias are gradually hardened before planting out in the partially shaded place in the garden or on the balcony.

Fuchsia in a pot

The fuchsia thrives splendidly in pots if it is given a well-drained, nutrient-rich substrate. A mix of normal garden soil, ripe compost and Quartz sand(€ 14.90 at Amazon *) equal parts. A pottery shard above the water outlet effectively prevents stagnant moisture. Water the plant in the early morning or late evening if the substrate is dry. From April to September apply liquid fertilizer at weekly intervals. Consistent cleaning of dead flowers effectively contributes to a long flowering time and maintains a well-groomed appearance. Fuchsia spend the winter in a semi-dark, frost-free room at temperatures of 10-12 degrees Celsius.

Is Fuchsia Poisonous?

We can give the all-clear with regard to a possible poison content. There are no toxic components in fuchsias. On the contrary, the juicy berries are even edible. Eaten fresh or prepared with jam, syrup or cake topping, the fruits give us a refreshing pleasure.

Fuchsia does not bloom

If your fuchsia refuses to flower, the dilemma stems from various causes. We have compiled common triggers and tips on how to fix them for you here:

• Drought stress: never let the root ball of a fuchsia dry out; Gently shower the plant regularly
• Waterlogging: Plant in permeable soil, water in a pot with drainage and only when the surface is dry
• Nutrient deficiency: During the growth and flowering period, fertilize weekly with compost or liquid fertilizer
• Lack of light: Establish the ornamental plant in a shady to partially shaded location

The fuchsia will only tolerate a sunny location if the soil has sufficient moisture content. Under the blazing sun and heat, the flowers droop or do not even develop in the first place.
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Trivia

Early 19th In the early 20th century, the enthusiasm for fuchsias in Europe was so great that special expeditions were started to look for other species and varieties. The German botanist Karl Theodor Hartweg traveled to Central America from 1836 to 1843. We owe the discovery of magnificent fuchsia species to this trip, such as the unique fuchsia fulgens with its extra long flower tubes. Until the middle of the 19th In the 19th century, 64 known species of fuchsia came together in this way.

Nice varieties

107 species are described within the fuchsia genus, from which more than 12,000 varieties emerged. The scarlet fuchsia (Fuchsia magellanica) and their hybrids are actually suitable for cultivation in central European ornamental gardens. The following selection presents recommended varieties in which the scarlet fuchsia is at least involved as parents or grandparents.

• Gracilis: Probably the most popular garden fuchsia with purple-violet flowers and a graceful silhouette; Growth height 60-100 cm
• Sharpitor: an extravagant variety that sets itself apart with pink flowers and white-edged foliage; Growth height 60-70 cm
• Alba: Majestic outdoor fuchsia with countless, small, white-pink flowers until autumn; Height of growth 120 cm
• Hawshead: An elegant variety, the Alba trumps Alba for purity of white flowers; Growth height 60-100 cm
• Arauco: Magnificent play of colors with flowers in white, pink and purple-violet and a long flowering period; Growth height up to 70 cm
• Aurea: A gold outdoor fuchsia whose golden yellow foliage accentuates the red-purple flowers; Growth height 60-80 cm