Hibernate physalis plants and cut them properly

Physalis plants come from the Andes and are perennial plants here, but not frost-hardy and therefore only to be found as annual plants in the temperate climate. With an appropriate overwintering, it is also possible to preserve the physalis in the local areas. How this works and what role the waste plays in it, we reveal here.

Overwinter

If the Physalis plants, also known as Andean berries or Cape gooseberries, are cultivated in pots, wintering is relatively easy. In principle, it is only necessary to take the Physalis indoors when the outside temperature drops below 12-15 ° C.
Of course, there is more to successful wintering than setting it in a protected area.

preparation

So that the Physalis plant can optimally prepare for the dormant vegetation during the winter, appropriate measures must be taken in advance. These include:

• Pick ripe fruits
• Gradually reduce the watering amount from September, but never let it dry out
• Stop fertilizing completely at the beginning of September
• Cut if necessary

Tip:

Unripe, still green berries can and should be left on the plant. They still ripen on the plant. On the other hand, if they are harvested immature, they will no longer ripen.

Location

The Physalis plant also needs as much light as possible in its winter quarters so that no instincts can develop. These arise when the plants are too warm and dark at the same time. The shoots are weak and mostly barely leafed. They serve to strive towards the light and thus to ensure sufficient synthesis performance. If they occur, the plant must either be placed lighter or cooler. The dead shoots can be cut off.
So that it doesn't get that far in the first place, the following points must be observed in the winter location:

• Maintain temperatures between 12 and 15 ° C
• Place Physalis plants as bright as possible, if necessary use a plant light every hour
• Protect plants from drafts

to water

Even if the watering amount should be reduced in September so that the Physalis plants can prepare for winter dormancy, but substrate and root ball are still allowed do not dry out. It is therefore important to regularly check the moisture content of the soil. Once the top layer has dried, it can and should be watered.
During the winter, however, it is better to give only small amounts of water at a time and not to pour floating water as in the growth phase. Therefore, the condition of the earth should be checked more often to prevent it from drying out. It is also important that no cold water is used to water the Physalis plants. It should also be room temperature, i.e. not cooler than 12 ° C.

Winter protection outdoors

In regions with very mild winters, the Physalis plants can remain outdoors if they are adequately protected. Wintering is then more difficult. In these cases you need:

• Reduction of watering and waiver of fertilization from September
• Removal of damaged or dead plant parts
• Harvest the plant and do not leave any berries on the plant
• Apply mulch, sticks, and / or straw to protect the roots
• Wrap the perennial with garden fleece to protect the leaves and shoots from frost
• Water on frost-free days in dry winters

The problem with this type of overwintering is that although the plant needs to be protected, it also needs light and water at the same time. A cover reduces the risk of frost damage, but it also reduces the incidence of light. If you don't want to keep adding protection and removing it on sunny, warm days, it is better to overwinter the Physalis plants indoors.

Waste

Cuttings and wintering - at first glance, these maintenance measures seem to have nothing in common. In fact, there are mainly two good reasons for pruning the Physalis plants before and also during hibernation:

1. The plants are often too big to be overwintered in the house without any clippings. Shortening the shoots makes wintering easier or even possible in the first place.

2. If the crop is cut, strength is saved. The shoots do not have to be cared for and maintained. The less watering and the lack of fertilization therefore do not lead to a restricted supply of the physalis.

However, it should be mentioned that the Physalis plants do not necessarily have to be blended. As an alternative, it is also possible to hibernate the plants in a nursery or to let them hibernate to be lighter and warmer, so that more can be poured and also start fertilizing earlier can.

Thin out

An important care measure for the Physalis plants is regular thinning. This only removes disruptive shoots that cross one another, grow too close to one another and bear neither flowers nor fruit. In this way, fruit-bearing shoots receive more light and air, the risk of diseases and also a pest infestation that is difficult to control is reduced.
Please note the following points:

• Use clean cutting tools
• Disinfect scissors or knives before and after use
• Carry out thinning out as often and at short intervals so that the measure is gentle on the crop

It can be cut all year round and as required. This also applies to the wintering period.

Geiltriebe

As already mentioned, horny shoots form when the Physalis plants are warm but at the same time too dark. The shoots strive for the light, but are weakly developed and leafy. If very long and mostly pale shoots fall out, the location or the conditions at the location must be changed. If it is not possible to lower the temperature, the location must be made lighter. Since the natural incidence of light is not always sufficient in winter, plant lamps can help.
In terms of waste, the Geiltriebe do not represent an obstacle. They are easy to spot and easy to remove. It is important that cutting off the light-seeking drives does not solve the cause of their emergence. If they are simply removed, new shoots will follow until the care conditions are changed or the plant has exhausted its strength.

Radical offcut

If the Physalis plants are too big for wintering indoors, a more radical cut is recommended, i.e. a radical cut. To do this, the height of the plant is reduced by a third to a half. In order to create a visually beautiful picture, a main shoot can be left a little longer than the surrounding shoots.
The measure can be carried out particularly gently from autumn to winter.