Autumn anemone ∗ The 10 best care and planting tips

click fraud protection

Plant autumn anemone properly

the anemone hupehensis proves to be a long-lived and easy-care perennial if you take into account the requirements for correct planting in the appropriate location. With these brief instructions you will definitely succeed:

  • A partially shaded, protected location with humus, nutritious soil is ideal
  • The planting pit is twice as large as the root ball
  • Improve the excavated earth with compost, leaf soil, guano(€ 9.82 at Amazon *) and horn shavings
  • The planting depth in the bed corresponds to that in the nursery pot
  • A perennial support gives high-growing anemone varieties the best possible stability

also read

  • The best time to plant autumn anemones is spring
  • The great variety of autumn anemone varieties
  • Cutting autumn anemones - when and how?

Water the young anemone hupehensis and mulch then with leaves, compost or grass clippings. Plant the Autumn anemone in small tuffs, small flower islands form for a furious season finale. A planting distance of 45-50 cm for large perennials and 30-35 for smaller varieties is recommended.
Continue reading

Care tips

The complete observance of all requirements for the proper planting results in an effortlessly manageable maintenance. The clear program in short:

  • Water when the substrate is dry
  • Fertilize organically every 2-3 weeks from May to September
  • Clean up withered flowers, cut off withered leaves
  • Pruning close to the ground in late winter

In the first two years of standing and in rough locations, we recommend winter protection in the bed. Cover the planting site with leaves, straw and fir fronds. Anemone hupehensis in the bucket receives protection from frosty temperatures in the form of straw or leaves on the substrate in good time before the first frost. The planter is wrapped in bubble wrap and placed on insulating wood.
Continue reading

Which location is suitable?

If an adequate water supply is guaranteed at the location, the Anemone hupehensis thrives splendidly in sunny locations. If in doubt, we recommend a partially shaded place, for example in the shelter of tall deciduous trees. Since some specimens reach a height of 100 cm and more, a sheltered position is of the highest relevance.
Continue reading

The correct planting distance

Choose the planting distance proportional to the expected height. These distances have proven themselves in practice:

  • Growth height 40-90 cm: plant spacing 30-35 cm or 8 plants per square meter
  • Plant height 90-140 cm: plant spacing 45-50 cm or 4 plants per square meter

If the anemone hupehensis is used as a backdrop plant in front of trees, we recommend a distance of 75 cm.

What soil does the plant need?

Autumn anemones are a hit in beds wherever they are offered this type of soil:

  • Nutrient-rich, humic and freshly moist
  • Gladly with a proportion of clay
  • A slight lime content is not a problem
  • Good drainage, without the risk of waterlogging

We recommend a structurally stable substrate in the bucket Potting soil based on compost, optimized with Expanded clay(€ 16.36 at Amazon *) or Lava granules(€ 14.00 at Amazon *) for good permeability. Adding a handful of bog soil or peat prevents an excessively high pH value.

What is the best time to plant?

The autumn anemone must first work out its winter hardiness in the bed. In order to give her a sufficient window of time for this process, the most suitable planting time is spring from mid / end of April.
Continue reading

When is the flowering time?

The early autumn anemone unfolds its shell flowers from mid / late July until well into September. Most of the Anemone hupehensis blooms from August to October. The more consistently the perennial is cleaned, the longer the flowers will last.

Cut the autumn anemone correctly

The professional cut regulates the duration of the flowering period, creates space for the young shoot and provides picturesque supplies for the local vase jewelry. Our tips for correct cutting:

  • Regularly preening Anemone hupehensis extends the flowering time
  • Cut out dead flowers if seed formation is not desired
  • Cut back close to the ground in late winter or early spring
  • Cut the flower stems for the vase early in the morning

Continue reading

Water autumn anemone

Keep the Anemone hupehensis constantly moist and avoid waterlogging. If you cultivate the perennial in the bucket, experience has shown that the need for watering is higher than in the autumn bed. Alternating watering with calcareous and soft water is beneficial for the health of autumn anemones.

Fertilize autumn anemone properly

Anemone hupehensis requires repeated nutrients. In the bed fertilize From May to September every 2-3 weeks with compost. Every 2 weeks potted plants receive a liquid fertilizer for flowering plants.

Diseases

One of the sympathetic characteristics of an anemone hupehensis is its resistance to diseases. Only soot dew as a consequence of an aphid infestation occasionally occurs. This fungal disease manifests itself in black leaves. Cut the diseased flower back close to the ground and dispose of the clippings in the household waste.

Pests

The aphids, which are omnipresent in the garden, do not spare the anemone hupehensis despite their poisonous content. If the little beasts cavort on the pretty shrub, a repeated shower with the classic soft soap solution will finish them off. Mix one tablespoon each of soft soap and alcohol with one liter of water and spray the infested autumn anemone.

Overwinter

Since the anemone hupehensis gradually develops its winter hardiness in the first two years of standing, we recommend these protective measures:

  • Before the first frost, cover the root area with leaves and needles
  • Wrap the bucket with bubble wrap, place it on wood and cover the substrate with straw

Propagate autumn anemone

The lush flowers of an anemone hupehensis awaken the desire for more specimens. The perennial offers several methods of propagation:

  • Division of the roots by separating off runners in spring
  • Separation of root cuttings in late autumn

Thanks to these uncomplicated propagation techniques, even advanced hobby gardeners decide against the complicated, tedious one sowing of seeds.

How do I transplant properly?

With its long tap roots, the anemone hupehensis anchors itself deep in the ground. Damage to the root system is inevitable during transplanting, which means the end of the magnificent perennial. Only consider a change of location in exceptional cases. How to do it right:

  • In the spring after pruning the soil with the Digging fork loosen up
  • Too long root strands in the radius of the average growth height with the spade cut off
  • Carefully lift the tuber together with the taproot out of the earth

So that the Anemone hupehensis grows again after transplanting, divide the rhizome with a sharp knife 2-4 segments. It is also important to have a well-measured portion of compost to add to the new location.

Autumn anemone in the pot

The early anemone hupehensis 'Praecox' and other dainty varieties thrive wonderfully in pots. Choose a vessel shape that offers sufficient space for the deep taproot. We recommend high-quality compost-based potted plant soil as a substrate. A drainage made of potsherds over the floor opening prevents damaging waterlogging. How to care for the autumn anemone in the pot:

  • Test the substrate every 2 days using the thumb sample
  • If the surface of the earth feels dry, it is poured
  • Apply a liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from May to September
  • Snap out withered flowers, cut out withered leaves

When the flowering period is coming to an end, winter is already around the corner. Do not cut back the autumn anemone just yet, but only in late winter. Wrap the pot with bubble wrap, place it on a wooden block and cover the earth with coniferous twigs, straw or leaves. During a dry, frosty winter, water the Anemone hupehensis on mild days.

Is the Japanese anemone poisonous?

The botanical assignment of Anemone hupehensis to the buttercup family rightly makes experienced hobby gardeners sit up and take notice. All members of this plant family are considered to be slightly toxic to humans and animals. Caution should therefore be exercised within the reach of small children and pets. We recommend wearing gloves during planting and maintenance work.
Continue reading

Autumn anemone does not bloom

If the flowering of an anemone hupehensis is long in coming or fails completely, the following triggers cause the nuisance:

  • Drought stress: keep the substrate constantly moist
  • Over-fertilization: it is better to fertilize organically with compost
  • Waterlogging: check the location, repot the potted plant and water less

Improper transplanting also leads to damage to the roots. In this case there is no longer any salvation for the autumn anemone.

Brown leaves

If the leaves of an anemone hupehensis turn brown, neglect in the care usually causes this damage. First and foremost, drought stress results in dry, brown leaves. If the roots are in permanently moist soil, the leaves also turn brown. The same applies when the autumn anemone is exposed to continuous autumn rain.

Yellow leaves

Yellow leaves are an alarm signal that the soil pH is too high. Although the Anemone hupehensis can easily accept a slight lime content, a value of 7 should not be exceeded. As a result, the vital nutrient iron is bound in the substrate, causing deficiency symptoms that turn the leaves yellow. Fertilize specifically with an iron preparation from a specialist retailer and pour decalcified tap water or collected rainwater from now on.

The most beautiful varieties

  • Alba: majestic, richly blooming and stable variety with creamy white flowers from August to October
  • Queen Charlotte: elegant flower beauty with a stature height of 60-90 cm and delicate pink, semi-double flowers
  • Rose bowl: the new breed captivates with its dark pink flowers, which are darker colored on the back and on the edge
  • September charm: recommended variety with dainty 60 cm and pure pink bowl flowers
  • Margarete: magnificent, semi-double flowers in bright red with yellow eye and a height of 80 cm
  • Honorine Jobert: historical variety from 1858, robust, long-lived, richly blooming in bright white