In good conditions, green algae can multiply in an explosive manner. The water is slowly getting greener and cloudy. The range of vision is severely restricted. These floating algae are usually caused by too many nutrients in the water and too much light.
Responsible algae species
Green dot algae
Green spot algae form green spots on the aquarium glass and on the leaves of slowly growing plants. They are very hard algae, which is why they are rarely eaten. The zebra racing snail is helpful. The algae can be scraped off the disc with a blade. In order to suppress the algae, there must not be too much nutrient in the water, i.e. reduce the fish population, do not feed too much and if possible change at least 30 percent of the water every week.
Thread algae
Thread algae are thread-like structures of different lengths. The threads can get long, up to 30 cm, which is a lot for an aquarium. However, they are also easy to remove by wrapping them around an unpainted rod that is pulled through the water. Plants are food competitors and should be available in abundance. Algae eaters also play their part in the decimation.
Fur algae
Fur folds settle on the aquarium floor, on leaves and decorative objects and form a dense carpet of up to 3 cm in height. These algae grow very quickly. They cannot be removed manually. The trigger can be lighting for more than 12 hours per day. Fur algae also occur frequently in aquariums with little or no vegetation.
Hair algae
Hair algae form cotton ball-like or cushion-like structures up to a size of about 4 cm. Plant growth helps against hair algae, and the algae are also eaten by fish and invertebrates.
Lint algae
Lint algae the lint-looking algae preferentially grow on leaves and stems of plants. Often these are weakened. Coming lightly is normal and not a cause for concern. Since these algae are readily accepted by algae eaters, they can be easily decimated.
Fighting green algae is not easy. There are quick remedies that can be used, but they only provide short-term help and can even exacerbate the problem in the longer term. It is better to take consistent countermeasures, even when it's time
Fighting green algae in the aquarium - what can you do?
In the aquarium there is often strong algae growth when there is too much phosphate and too much ammonium in the water. Since there are only a few plants in most aquariums and they do not manage to absorb all of the nutrients, many are left over. The already existing algae begin to multiply. The water is getting greener and greener, the fish can hardly be seen.
Darken the aquarium
Green algae need light. If they don't get it, they die. In the case of an aquarium, it helps to cover it completely, i.e. to darken it. Of course, the lighting must also be switched off. Two things are important: the water must be changed as much as possible and ventilation must be ensured. The oxygen level for the fish is important. The darkening should be maintained for 4 to 7 days.
UVC water clarifier
The water clarifiers are controversial and their use needs to be carefully considered. In any case, continuous use is not recommended, as not only the algae are killed, but also the bacteria, which in turn are responsible for the decomposition of the algae. In addition to algae, it also kills parasites and floating bacteria. A water change is usually recommended after use.
Diatom filter
A diatom filter is suitable for quickly cleaning the water. It filters out the floating algae quickly, but often clogs up in the process. It is better to monitor him in his work and, if necessary, repeatedly clean the filter.
Insert water fleas
Water fleas live on algae. So if you have the opportunity to remove the fish from the aquarium, the problem can be easily combated. You should see from the fish that they do not overeat.
Fight green algae in the pond
The green color of pond water also comes from the explosive growth of green algae. There is too much sun here, which overheats the water, which is to blame. It heats up very quickly and strongly, especially in shallow ponds. However, an oversupply of nutrients is often to blame for garden ponds as well. the
The combination of too much sun and too many nutrients causes an extreme increase in green algae, the cloudiness of the water and the green color. First, the causes for this increase must be found so that it can be stopped.Causes of green algae in the pond
There are several causes that can be triggers. Often it is a combination of several things. The pond can usually cope with one cause itself, but if it piles up, it is overwhelmed and needs help. A healthy pond helps itself. If he doesn't, the ecological balance is disturbed, something is wrong. Usually there are too many nutrients in the water. There are various reasons for this:
- Too many fish, therefore too much fish excrement
- Too much fish food that was not consumed
- Too much sun exposure
- Too few plants, both marginal planting and aquatic and floating plants
- A lot of mud on the bottom, consists of dead plant material, leaves, washed-in soil, dust, etc. The decomposition produces a lot of nutrients.
- Dead plants in the water and on the bank
- Heavy rain, which washes soil into the pond and rainwater contains many nutrients at certain times, e.g. B. Pollen
- Well water that is used for the pond can contain a lot of phosphorus
- Missing filter system, especially with fish stock
Quick help with green algae
A UVC clarifier brings quick help. If there is a filter system, it can be placed in front of the actual filter. The floating algae are "clumped" in the clarifier by UV light. These bundles can be filtered out by the pond filter. With the larger particles, the filter does not have the problem that there is with microscopic algae. They just slide through.
Tip: The wattage of the UVC lamp is decisive for its effectiveness. 1 to 2 watts are required for every thousand liters of water. If there are fish in the pond, it is 2 to 3 watts per thousand liters, in koi ponds even 4 to 5 watts. In addition, the lamps should be changed annually.
Algae control agents also do a good job quickly, but not permanently. There are different algae control agents. For all of them, you should absolutely follow the operating instructions. Overdosing must be avoided.
Chemical flocculants with the active ingredients ferric chloride or Aluminum salts work quite well. They ensure that the floating algae clump together to form large flakes and so they can be disposed of through the pond filter. If the flakes sink to the bottom of the pond, they serve other algae again as nutrients. Flocculants work quickly and are harmless to other pond inhabitants.
A water change is often recommended. It must be said, however, that fresh water also contains a lot of nutrients, so it does not always make sense. The water quality is decisive. Rainwater is quite acidic. If it has not rained for a long time, dust, including pollen, collects on the roofs. The rain washes these nutrients away and into the collecting container. This is how they get into the pond. Well water also often contains nutrients and even normal tap water has its pitfalls. A water test provides information about the water quality.
Long-term solution = eliminate the causes
It is best to first test the water in the pond. The water values usually tell you very well why the green algae multiply so much. A water sample does not necessarily have to be sent in for analysis, a water analysis set is sufficient. These are available in stores with good instructions. Good water quality is characterized by the following values:
- pH - 7 to 8
- Nitrite (NO2) <0.15 mg / l
- Nitrate (NO3) <0.50 mg / l
- KH value - 5 to 12
- GH value - 8 to 12
Once the values have been determined and compared, countermeasures can be initiated. Water conditioners can be used to compensate for the values. Then it is important to remedy the causes.
Too few plants in the pond - use aquatic plants and floating plants, if possible also fast-growing ones. They are food competitors.
Too much sun - shade the pond
Too much sludge on the pond floor - find out the cause
Pond soil for planting - do not plant in soil, not even in pond soil. Most aquatic plants also thrive in gravel or between pebbles
Foliage - In autumn, if possible, fish the leaves every day so that they do not sink to the ground, set up a foliage protection net, relocate deciduous trees, plant evergreen trees instead (shading)
Washed-in soil - install a capillary barrier, remove a little bit of soil all around so that the edge of the pond is higher
Dust, pollen - cannot be prevented, but is cleared through a filter
Remove sludge from the pond, by hand or with a sludge vacuum. The best time for this is spring.
Missing pond filter - installation of a filter system corresponding to the size and population
Too much fish stock - there should be no more than 3 kg of fish per 1,000 liters of water. Catch some fish and give them away! Fishless ponds are much easier to maintain. The biological balance is easier to maintain.
Much unused fish feed - feed less
Dead fish or invertebrates in the water - fish out
Dead plant material - Check bank planting regularly and remove dead plants or parts of them. Check the plants in the water as well.
Killed algae - must be removed as they release enormous amounts of nutrients as they decompose
Conclusion
Green algae occur in every pond or Aquarium on. They don't cause any trouble as long as they don't reproduce en masse. There are countermeasures that work very quickly, but they usually only help briefly and can subsequently worsen the water quality. It is better to find out the cause and remedy it. A lot can also be done preventively. Certain things should be taken into account at the planning stage so that the nutrient surplus cannot arise later. Advice from a specialist can be of great help. In addition, both aquariums and ponds must be maintained regularly and usually intensively. The water only very, very rarely stays clear on its own.
