Tutorial with illustrated instructions

Jasmine variants - types of cut and dates

Do not let yourself be confused by the diverse shrubs that bear the name jasmine. The following table provides an overview of when for real jasmine, Winter jasmine and garden jasmine as pseudo jasmine the pruning makes sense.

At this point, real jasmine represents the whole host of magnificent species and picturesque varieties that should overwinter behind glass in our regions. Flower beauties such as pink jasmine (Jasminum stephanense), Azores jasmine (Jasminum azoricum) or primrose jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi) all pull together when it comes to pruning.

Real Jasmine - Cutting Instructions

Real jasmine comes from the green treasure trove of Asia and is widespread in the Mediterranean region. The opulent flowering wood thrives as an evergreen or deciduous climbing plant. Jasmin makes up for its pronounced sensitivity to frost with its forgiving cut tolerance. If you choose the right date for the haircut, you can't go wrong. That is how it goes:

• Cut jasmine after flowering
• Cut back too long shoots that protrude beyond the climbing aid
• Apply scissors over a well-positioned one bud at a distance of 3-5 mm

Your horticultural assessment and the available space determine the scope of the cut. All types of Jasminum have powerful growth. Even after cutting back by two thirds, the bushes will sprout again. If a jasmine grows over your head during the summer, regulate the urge to spread with moderate pruning.

Cuttings provide cuttings

Do not carelessly throw away jasmine clippings. If you are in the mood for more specimens, they usually contain several candidates for propagation Cuttings. Head cuttings and partial cuttings are equally suitable as long as they are 10 to 15 cm long and do not have flowers. Remove all the leaves in the lower half. Put each section of shoots in a pot Potting soil and put a transparent hood over it. In the partially shaded location at 20 to 25 degrees Celsius, there are good prospects for rapid rooting.

Digression

Incorrect cutting time destroys flower buds

Cut winter jasmine

Thanks to global warming, more and more gardens shine with a sea of ​​yellow flowers in winter. Winter jasmine occupies a special position among the jasmine species in terms of its tolerance to frost down to - 18 degrees Celsius and its unorthodox flowering period from December to March. This is how you include the individual attributes in the pattern maintenance:

• The best time is in February / March after the flowering period has ended
• Thinning out dead wood and frozen shoots
• Cut back excessively long branches that reach the ground by a third or half
• Ideally derived from a well-positioned, strong side shoot
• Cut fused side branches along the scaffold shoots to 5 cm short tenons

Winter jasmine bears its most beautiful flowers on the annual side shoots that sprout from perennial scaffold shoots. A vigorous pruning of a pair of buds clears the way for a splendid bloom next year. Moderate corrections are easily possible during the summer. From August you should get your winter jasmine no longer intersect, because from this point in time he creates the next generation of buds.

Every one to two years you thin out winter jasmine in February. If long branches hang down to the ground, they will take root there. Cut those shoots back a third or half after the flowering period. Shorten faded side shoots to 5 cm long cones.

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Jasmine tolerates taper pruning

Thinning garden jasmine occasionally

The danger of confusing real jasmine and garden jasmine causes considerable confusion and bitter disappointments as a result of incorrectly cared for the cut. The latter is also known as false jasmine, farmer's jasmine or scented jasmine, although it is the Pipe bush (Philadelphus) acts.

The popular ornamental wood grows upright to bushy, is 3 meters high, is completely hardy and yet sensitive to cutting. Its blossom wood is vital for up to eight years, so that the pruning is limited to occasional thinning. How to cut garden jasmine correctly:

• The best time is every 2 to 3 years in February
• Clear out some of the oldest scaffolding shoots at floor level
• As a substitute, leave a corresponding number of young ground shoots
• Remove excess, weak shoots
• Broom-like branching, scaffolding shoots sloping to the ground derive on a lower side branch

As the illustration below illustrates, the pruning of garden jasmine is very easy reserved. A strong cut, like on real jasmine or winter jasmine, is promptly followed by the failure of at least one flowering period.

A garden jasmine is well positioned with 7 to 12 scaffold shoots. Throw out some of the oldest ground shoots every 2 to 3 years and leave young shoots to replace them. Heavily branched tips can be slimmed down by deriving them from a young side shoot.

frequently asked Questions

Is jasmine poisonous?

The noble ornamental wood is unfortunately poisonous in all parts. Even the consumption of small amounts can trigger typical symptoms of poisoning due to the alkaloids contained, such as vomiting, cramps and diarrhea. Larger amounts even carry the risk of respiratory paralysis. For children, the greatest danger comes from the berries that form after the flowering period. Cultivation in the family garden is therefore not recommended.

My farmer's jasmine is cut back and thinned out every year. The shrub is now 7 years old and has never really flowered. What can I do?

Farmer's jasmine is one of the pipe bushes and is not related to real jasmine. For this reason, the shrub will only bloom if you only clear dead branches at the base every two to three years. Please absolutely refrain from shortening the shoots. This causes brooms to form and destroys already established flower buds. Apply a phosphorus-stressed fertilizer at the end of March to stimulate flowering.

When and how do I cut a winter jasmine so that it grows splendidly?

From August onwards, winter jasmine starts to buds for the next flowering period. At this point at the latest, the incision care should be finished. Only after the end of the late winter blossom festival does the time window for the shape and care cut open. The extent to which you cut the ornamental wood depends on your personal assessment. A strong pruning should be carried out by the beginning of March, because according to the Federal Nature Conservation Act, then the grace period begins, which only allows light maintenance cuts.

Is garden jasmine just as suitable for the tub as real jasmine?

Basically, garden jasmine thrives in large tubs, provided that there is a guarantee of sufficient water and nutrient supply. However, the expansive heart root system requires significantly more pot volume than real jasmine with a space-saving flat root system. In the first five to six years, cultivation in the bucket will succeed. We then recommend transplanting garden jasmine into the bed.

Should a climbing frame always be available for winter jasmine?

Winter jasmine thrives as a spreading climber. If there are no possibilities to which he can hold on with his organs of attachment, his shoots lie on the ground. A sturdy trellis or an obelisk offer the long tendrils ideal conditions for climbing up on their own.

The 3 most common mistakes

Never cutting vigorous jasmine is just as detrimental to growth and blooming, as is an incorrectly chosen time of cutting. Anyone who confuses a garden jasmine with real jasmine in terms of pruning will look in vain for the fragrant flowers for at least one summer. The following table summarizes common cutting errors with solid tips for prevention:

Tips

The good-natured cut tolerance of all Jasminum species forgives many a beginner's mistake. Long-lasting waterlogging, on the other hand, reliably hunts down the exotic flower beauties. A 5-10 cm high drainage on the bottom of the bucket prevents the mishap. Fill the coaster with pebbles or expanded clay balls so that accumulated water does not rise back into the substrate.