The compost turns kitchen and garden waste into high-quality soil that is rich in nutrients. This is exactly what happens in the worm composter, but in a smaller space and much faster. A worm composter for the balcony can be made by yourself with simple means. The advantage is that high-quality soil and fertilizer are created from waste, which is a good basis for vegetables and flowers on the balcony.
Different composter
There are different systems for making vermicompost on the balcony. The classic is the worm box, which is available in different versions. In addition, plastic worm composters are also available in stores, in which the worm tea and solid fertilizer are collected separately. Which variant is chosen depends on your own preferences. In principle, all composters work in the same way.
They consist of several floors. The worm tea is collected at the very bottom. On the floor above there is ready-made worm compost, on the floor above the worms are at work and fresh worm feed is also placed here. The number of floors can vary for different models.
Build a simple composter
If you want to build a worm composter for the balcony yourself, you can do this with simple means. All you need is several buckets and a lid, as well as a drill. The bottom bucket is used to catch the worm tea. In the bucket above, several holes are drilled in the ground, through which liquids that are created during composting can seep through. The first perforated bucket is also the first floor where the compost worms and their food come. The bucket is lightly covered with the lid. As soon as the bucket is full there is a new bucket, again with holes in the bottom over it. Liquid seeps down through the holes and the compost worms can climb into the next bucket.
Note: Move the compost worms
independently to the next floor when the composting of the previous level has been completed.Compost worms
While each worm does valuable work in the soil and in recycling organic matter, there are some species that perform at their best when it comes to composting.
The following types are suitable as compost worms:
- Eisenia
- Dendrobena
They are also visually different from earthworms. They are significantly shorter and much more agile. They also have a more intense reddish color.
It is possible to buy compost worms in stores. However, if you are out and about in the forest and dig something under a pile of leaves, with a little luck you may find some compost worms there too. A worm composter can be started with just a few specimens of suitable worm species. If the worms feel good, they multiply very quickly.
Start the worm composter
The initial phase in the worm composter is a bit tricky. Not only must there be enough food, the worms must be able to feel good. For this purpose, some damp paper is crumpled up and placed at the bottom. This is important so that the worms can hide, since there is usually not enough material available at the start to offer them sufficient protection.
As food at the beginning, the worms should be given a mixture of fresh material, vegetable scraps and some dry material. For example:
- Dried herbs
- leaves
- dry twigs (cut into small pieces)
This offers the compost worms a good basis to get used to their new environment and to multiply quickly. The more worms there are in the composter, the faster they decompose the material, which means that high-quality fertilizer is available more quickly
stands.Note: On average, a 10 liter bucket of worms took three to four months to convert completely into fertilizer.
Promote communities
Although the compost worms do the main work, other living things can make their work easier. There are different microorganisms that break open the surfaces of bark or shells, making the compost worms' work easier. In the vermicompost, other living beings should therefore be promoted such as:
- mushrooms
- bacteria
- Mites
- other worm species
Enchytrae in compost are particularly helpful. These are small white annelids that support the compost worms.
Tip: In order to get more microorganisms into the vermicompost, it is often enough soil or Sprinkle compost in the worm-composter. The compost is thus inoculated and the microorganisms multiply very quickly under good conditions.
Suitable worm food
The worms have to be constantly supplied with fresh food. If they don't have enough food, the population dies.
The following are suitable as feed:
- Fruit scraps
- Vegetable scraps
- Eggshells (heavily crushed)
- Coffee grounds
- Tea bag (without clip and label)
- Plant remains
- bread
- vegan leftovers
Around 20% of the feed should consist of cardboard or newspaper, because the worms need the fibers it contains. The material should be damp but not dripping wet. In the covered composter, however, there is usually an optimal climate, which means that apart from newspaper or cardboard compost material does not have to be additionally moistened. The more finely structured the material, the faster the worms can use it. Very coarse material such as eggshells or plant remains should be shredded beforehand.
Unsuitable leftovers
Of course, there is also unsuitable waste that does not belong on the worm-composter. This includes:
- Leftover meat
- bone
- Dairy products
- Citrus fruits
- coated paper
- heavily salted leftovers
- cat litter
- Faeces of humans or animals
The worms cannot utilize this material, especially in large quantities. As a result, unwanted organisms find their way into the worm composter, which can lead to the death of the worms and the formation of rot.
Worm tea and worm compost
The worm composter not only produces solid fertilizer in the form of compost, but also liquid fertilizer. The liquid fertilizer, also known as worm tea, is created through anaerobic decomposition. The worm tea is a highly concentrated one
Fertilizer. It can be collected in bottles or canisters. It is used in a mixing ratio of one part worm tea to ten parts water with water.The vermicompost should also not be used pure, but always mixed with soil. It is suitable as a vegetable or potting soil. However, vermicompost is not suitable for cultivation because it has too many nutrients, which means that seedlings do not develop beautiful roots.
Possible problems
Many shy away from making worm compost on the balcony because they are afraid of odors or insects that arise or arise from the decomposition. can be attracted. However, this only happens when the wrong materials or wrong composition. A common problem are fruit flies, which can become a nuisance, especially in summer. Fruit flies only arise when there are a lot of fruit and vegetables in the composter. This can be remedied by covering with a thin layer of earth. This can also reduce odors. An alternative method of absorbing odors is to sprinkle rock flour on the top layer.
The worm tea in particular can have a strong odor. Therefore, the worm tea should be bottled regularly. This prevents the area in which the worms are located from becoming too damp because the liquid can no longer insure and the small quantities can be filled more quickly.
Note: A worm-composter is not forbidden on the balcony. However, care should be taken to ensure that neighbors are not annoyed by smells or insects.
Worm composter in winter
For many, the question arises as to what to do with the worm-composter in winter. Below 10 ° C, the compost worms largely cease to work. They work most efficiently at a temperature of 15-25 ° C. In winter, the worms would retreat to deeper layers of the earth at cool temperatures. You don't have this option on the balcony, so the worms should be moved to a frost-free place in winter. Cellars or frost-free garages are ideal. Of course, the worms can also be kept indoors. The conditions here are ideal to feed them throughout the winter.
If the compost worms stay on the balcony, they must be protected from the cold. To do this, they can be wrapped in styrofoam, for example. However, it must be ensured that they get enough air. If it is particularly frosty, however, there is usually no other choice but to bring them in, otherwise they would die from the cold.
Tip: If the worms are less active in winter, they should no longer be fed as heavily. This would only lead to increased anaerobic composting, which quickly makes the composter too damp.
