Petunia ∗ The 10 best care and planting tips

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Origin and Distribution

The garden petunia that is so popular with us is strictly speaking not a species of its own, but one that dates back to the 19th century. Hybrid bred from the violet petunia (Petunia integrifolia) and the white petunia (Petunia axillaris). It is characterized by a large variety of flower colors and growth forms, is easy to care for and extremely floriferous.

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The original wild forms come from the climatically moderate to subtropical regions of South America and are particularly widespread in Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina and Uruguay. It is also not a single species, but a separate genus of plants with around 16 different species.

Petunias (bot. Petunia) belong to the nightshade family (Solanaceae) and are closely related to the tobacco plant (Nicotiana). The name of the plant also refers to this: "Petun" means nothing more than "tobacco" in one of the native languages ​​of Brazil, Guarani.

The petunias available on the market are usually garden petunias; special species and their varieties are rarely offered.

use

Because of their climbing, dense growth and the abundance of flowers, petunias are popular permanent flowering plants for Flower boxes(€ 149.00 at Amazon *) or traffic lights as well as for pots. Here the colorful blooming miracles are suitable both for dense planting - either solo or in combination with other species - as well as for solitary use. Furthermore, petunias can be used excellently as underplanting of tall trunks or other woody plants, for example as a supplement to hybrid tea roses or Convertible rose.

But not only on the balcony, but also in the garden bed, petunias cut a fine figure. Especially with other annual, fast-growing summer flowers such as

  • Tagetes
  • Verbenas
  • Pelargonium
  • Lobelia
  • Snowflake flowers
  • Fuchsias
  • or sun hat

the flowers form a suitable alliance. If you don't want to distract from the flowers with other flowering plants, you can combine petunias with ornamental foliage plants such as Colored nettle or Gundermann. Herbs, especially Mediterranean ones such as sage, thyme, oregano etc., as well as vegetables can be very well associated with the uncomplicated petunia.

Incidentally, blooming petunias fulfill a very practical purpose on the balcony or terrace: the plant should be annoying Repel mosquitoeswho don't like the scent of the flowers at all. This works particularly well if you plant the flowers together with other plants that mosquitoes do not like. For example, lavender, rosemary, basil, but also lemon balm, marigolds and tomatoes are suitable.

Appearance and stature

Strictly speaking, the petunia is not a flower, but a fast-growing and shrubby herb. The garden petunias, which are usually grown as an annual, can reach heights of between 20 and 70 centimeters, depending on the variety. The gardener differentiates between upright petunias and hanging petunias. These varieties, also known as cascade petunias, develop long shoots covered with numerous flowers and are therefore particularly suitable for planting in hanging baskets or Window boxes.(€ 7.99 at Amazon *)

The magic bells (calibrachoe), which are very similar in appearance to a petunia, are not small-flowered varieties, but a genus of their own. However, both the magic bells and the petunias belong to the nightshade family (Solanaceae) and are therefore closely related to each other.

leaves

The dark green, whole-edged and slightly hairy leaves of the petunia form a strong contrast to the strong, fresh colors of the trumpet-shaped flowers. The plant hairs, also known as trichomes, are often sticky. Typically, the petunia's stalked leaves are arranged alternately, although there are also species and varieties with leaves sorted in pairs.

Blossoms and flowering period

The garden petunias are classically divided into four different groups according to the size and abundance of their flowers:

  • Grandiflora petunias: very large, flat and trumpet-shaped flowers, individually on the stem, sensitive to rain
  • Multiflora petunias: compact growth, numerous short-stalked flowers with a diameter of up to five centimeters, insensitive to rain
  • Floribunda petunias: numerous, up to approx. eight centimeter large flowers, sensitive to rain
  • Milliflora petunias: numerous tiny flowers only between two and three centimeters in size

The so-called “rose petunias”, on the other hand, are varieties whose double, round flowers are reminiscent of rose blossoms.

Typical of all petunias are the delicate, trumpet-shaped flowers in numerous summer colors. In addition to single-colored varieties in white, pink, red, violet and blue, there are also fascinating varieties with spotted, star or striped patterned flowers. With all varieties, the lush splendor can be tirelessly admired between May and October with appropriate care.

Toxicity

As with almost all nightshade plants, the green parts of the petunia plant contain solanine and are therefore poisonous. In particular, the leaves must not be nibbled or nibbled by humans or pets. to be eaten. However, petunias contain less of the poisonous solanine than potato plants, and the leaves, which are scratchy due to their hair, do not taste particularly good.

In the event of consumption, u. a. typical symptoms of poisoning such as nausea, diarrhea and vomiting. However, mere touch does not produce these signs. However, the sticky plant hairs can trigger allergies in sensitive people, which manifest themselves in symptoms such as itching, reddened and / or irritated skin. For asthmatics, however, the flowers are harmless.

Which location is suitable?

Petunias bloom all the more beautifully, the sunnier they are. A warm, wind and rain-protected location is therefore best for the summer blooming flowers, regardless of whether they are on the balcony or in the garden bed. Heat and blazing sun do not harm the lush bushes with the delicate flowers, but they are sensitive to wind, cold and rain - and the bigger the flowers are, the more so. The Grandiflora varieties in particular belong in a place protected from rain, as the colors of the large flowers are quickly washed out by moisture. Small-flowered variants, on the other hand, are significantly more robust against the effects of the weather.

Those who cannot offer their petunias a full sun location should plant them in open areas Penumbra. There the plants also thrive very well, but then do not develop as many flowers.

Substrate / soil

The use of special petunia soil, which is available in every DIY store and garden center, is recommended for keeping in a bucket. Mostly, however, is commercially available Potting soil completely sufficient on a compost basis. Make sure, however, that you choose high-quality potting soil without peat. Inferior substrates often lead to yellowed or otherwise discolored leaves, because after a while there is an iron deficiency due to unsuitable soil and / or insufficient supply.

If, on the other hand, the petunias are to be planted in the garden borders, you should place them in loose, Plant humus-rich, well-drained soil and add mature compost or manure if necessary enrich.

Prefer

In spring, the various types of petunia are available at low prices in stores. Those who enjoy growing their own plants can also win their own petunias as bought or collected seeds. Please note, however, that the hybrid varieties in particular can be sterile (i.e. H. no viable seeds can be obtained) or they do not reliably pass on their properties to their offspring. This is especially true for hanging petunias, whose descendants often have an upright growth. Propagation via seeds is always a surprise, as different characteristics are always mixed up anew.

You can prefer petunias on the windowsill as early as January, with the sowing between February and March is still completely sufficient. The plants are light germs, which is why the seeds are not included Potting soil should be covered, but should only rest on this. Always keep the substrate slightly moist and place the seed pot in a light, but not directly sunny and around 20 ° C warm location. At best, cover it with a hood, which can also consist of a cut-off PET bottle or foil.

The seedlings are pricked out as soon as the second pair of leaves has developed. On the other hand, you should wait until mid / end of May before planting them out, because petunias are sensitive to frost and can be seriously damaged by late night frosts.

Planting petunias properly

Since petunias like to stand in warm and full sun locations, they have a correspondingly high water requirement, which, however, must not degenerate into waterlogging. Correspondingly, it is important to ensure good drainage, especially when it is kept in a bucket, for example by adding a layer of gravel to the bottom of the pot. This regulates the water balance and also ensures that excess water is quickly drained to the outside. To do this, there must be a drain hole at the bottom of the pot, where the irrigation water drains into a saucer or into the planter. Remove it from this immediately after watering so that the plants do not get "wet feet".

Tends to be heavy, clayey Garden soil too wet or Permanent moisture, drainage in the planting hole is also recommended here. To do this, apply a layer of gravel to the bottom of the planting hole and mix the excavated material with loose substrates such as Compost soil, Sand etc. In any case, when planting outdoors, you should generously add compost to the planting hole in order to give the petunias sufficient nutrients to start with.

In the case of pots, you should not choose the planter too small so that the roots have plenty of space and the plants can develop well. Planting too tightly, on the other hand, not only leads to stunted growth, but also promotes disease and pest infestation.

Before planting, put the plant in a bucket of water so that the roots can soak up the moisture. Also water carefully after planting mulch The root area, for example with bark mulch. This ensures that the moisture in the soil does not evaporate again immediately, and the roots become cool - in contrast to the above-ground parts of the plant, they do not like too much heat.
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What is the best time to plant?

The frost-sensitive petunias are only allowed to go outside in late spring / early summer after you have gradually accustomed the young plants to a location in the fresh air. The flowers are severely damaged by sudden nocturnal frosts and should therefore be protected from them.

The correct planting distance

The optimal distance between two plants is about 15 centimeters.

Watering petunias

Even if petunias are considered easy to care for, they are anything but undemanding. They have to be regularly supplied with water, especially during the hot summer months, whereby the substrate must not dry out if possible. If this happens occasionally, short-term drought is not a problem, but in the long run it leads to the death of the plant. Petunias grown in planters, in particular, should be watered two to three times a day on hot, dry days.

The pretty flowering plants do not tolerate drought, but neither do they like waterlogging. You should therefore only water when necessary, which you determine by the degree of dryness of the substrate: time for A powerful pour from the watering can is again when the potting soil has dried on the surface is. Use soft, low-lime water such as well-stale tap water or collected rainwater for watering. Hard water, on the other hand, can be problematic as it disrupts the supply of nutrients. However, if you live in an area with lime-rich water, you may have discolored leaves and from it due to lack of nutrients However, counteract the resulting diseases by filtering the tap water and adding a good iron fertilizer administer.

Never moisten the petunia's leaves or flowers while watering, as this can cause too Burns (water droplets act like burning glasses in the sun) or fungal diseases promote.
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Fertilize petunias properly

The petunia needs a lot of nutrients for its abundant bloom and therefore needs regular fertilization. If the flowers are to be in the garden bed, give them one that is suitable for flowering plants Slow release fertilizer with in the planting hole. The compost that is also added will not meet the high nutritional requirements. Container plants, on the other hand, provide you with a phosphorus-based, liquid universal or Flowering plant fertilizer,(€ 10.86 at Amazon *) which you can do every two weeks or Administer with the irrigation water according to the manufacturer's instructions. Phosphorus is essential for plants and promotes flower formation, while nitrogen primarily stimulates shoot growth. If the petunia develops yellow leaves, it suffers from an iron deficiency and should be supplied with a special iron fertilizer.

Cut petunias properly

Vigorous pruning is only necessary if you want to overwinter the petunias. In this case, use the scissors before moving to the winter quarters and repeat this measure before clearing out in spring. At this point, you should remove thin and weak shoots that have grown over the winter.

Otherwise, simply pluck off the blooms that have faded during the flowering period so that the plant continues to develop new inflorescences. In addition, withered shoots quickly become unsightly and sticky, which is why cutting off has optical reasons. If you neglect cleaning, petunias will develop seed pods that you can collect shortly before ripening and store in a dry and dark place over the winter. To prevent the faded inflorescences from sticking together, carefully pluck only the petals. Then a small, green ovary remains, from which the seed capsule eventually develops. Between January and March you can use the seeds in it to grow your own petunias.

Propagate petunias

In contrast to cultivation from seeds, petunias can be propagated by single-variety cuttings. Since this form of propagation is basically clones of the mother plant, they have the same properties and you are safe from surprises. The easiest way to propagate cuttings is this:

  • Cut off a 15 to 20 centimeter long secondary shoot in early summer.
  • Remove all flowers from this.
  • Pluck the leaves down to the pairs of leaves on the top five centimeters of the shoot.
  • Put the cutting in a glass with soft water.
  • Place the glass in a bright, not directly sunny location.
  • Change the water every two days.

After about two to three weeks, the cutting will develop its first roots so that you can plant it in suitable soil and cultivate it like any adult plant.
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Overwinter

Since petunias are not frost-hardy and are available in great variety and for little money every year, they are usually only cultivated as an annual. In fact, they are perennial plants that you can overwinter with a little effort and plant out again in the coming spring. You have several options for this:

  • Seeds: You simply collect the seed pods with the seeds and overwinter them in order to use them in February to grow new plants. The petunias from last year, on the other hand, are composted in autumn.
  • Plants: Hibernating adult plants, on the other hand, is a little more time-consuming. The best way to do this is as follows:
  • Put petunias in their winter quarters before the first frost.
  • Plant strong up to approx. Cut back 20 centimeters.
  • A bright, frost-free room that is between five and ten degrees cool is ideal.
  • Protect petunias from heating air.
  • not fertilize, only water a little occasionally.

In spring you slowly get the petunias used to the sun and warmth again, but you shouldn't put the plants outside too early. From April you also start with the right fertilization and gradually increase the watering frequency.
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Diseases and pests

Petunias are quite robust plants, but due to poor care they can be attacked by diseases and / or pests. The following occur particularly frequently:

  • Real one mildew: occurs mainly in hot, warm weather, cut out the infected plant parts generously and spray the infected plant several times with a mixture of whole milk and water
  • Root rot: caused by constant moisture in the substrate / waterlogging, repot the affected plants immediately in fresh substrate and generously cut away rotten roots and diseased shoots
  • Whitefly: occurs in heat and high humidity, hang up yellow boards and spray the plant with a soft soap solution (a few drops of washing-up liquid and vegetable oil on some water)
  • Aphids: spray the infected plant with soft soap solution or fresh nettle stock

Not only in summer, but especially in winter, you have to watch out for pests and possible signs of disease. Check the overwintering plants regularly and react as quickly as possible.

Tips

If you are looking for particularly robust and less susceptible varieties, you should choose petunias with simple, small purple or blue flower colors. These usually tolerate even wind and rain quite well, whereas white-blooded variants are often quite susceptible to chlorosis.

Species and varieties

Petunias have been around since the middle of the 19th century. Bred intensively in the 20th century. How many varieties there are nowadays, probably nobody can say exactly. Newer breeds often come up with pretty colors and are considered particularly robust, for example the Surfinia line from Japan. We would like to briefly introduce you to some of the most beautiful variants for pots and the garden:

  • 'Big Time Blue': simple flowers in a beautiful blue, very robust
  • 'Cascade Orchid Mist': hanging petunia with double double flowers, two-tone white and pink
  • 'Celebration Blue': strong blue flower color, also thrives in partial shade
  • 'Celebration Sky Blue': hanging petunia with beautiful blue flowers
  • 'Johnny Flame': Flowers with yesterday's pattern, dark purple with a lighter edge
  • 'Lavender Shades': beautiful blue-violet flower color
  • 'Pearly Wave': vigorous hanging petunia, two-tone flowers in white and pink
  • 'Purple Pirouette': double double flowers, purple with a white border
  • 'Red Pirouette': double flowers, red with a white border
  • 'Rosy Ripple: double flowers with a white and pink pattern

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