When, how and how much?

Wild roses require little care

When it comes to pruning, wild roses and their hybrids are the easiest to handle because you can just let these roses grow - wild roses should in principle trimmed as little as possible will. But you can also dare to prune back more vigorously with wild roses, the robust roses will cope with it and sprout again and again. Wild roses have the ability to constantly rejuvenate from the base, adapted to regular game browsing.

Pay attention to the eyes when cutting

In spring, the first thing you notice are the swelling eyes on the shoot ends. The so-called "sleeping eyes" underneath do not drive out until later. At first they can only be recognized as a faint horizontal line. By cutting back, the formation of new shoots from the lower sleeping eyes should be encouraged. Cut about five to ten millimeters above one facing outwards

eyethen the new instinct grows outward. The technology keeps the shrub open and airy and thus prevents fungal diseases - especially important in a densely growing one Rose hedge.

More often blooming roses bloom on this year's shoots, i. H. on annual wood. A cut in spring promotes new shoots and thus the abundance of flowers in the same year. Roses that bloom once bloom on the shoots that they formed in the previous year as well as on the perennial wood. They are therefore only cut immediately after flowering. Then they develop new shoots that can still mature well by winter.

Thinning out and rejuvenating the rose hedge

For all roses, the spring cut begins with one Clearance cut. First cut all frozen and diseased shoots down to the base or all the way back to the healthy wood. Healthy shoots show whitish pulp, diseased shoots brownish. Then remove all thin and weak shoots, the stronger ones can better carry the flowers. Crossing shoots should also be cut back because they injure each other. So remove the weaker one.