The cutting measures briefly explained

the Kiwi plant is a creeping, hardy shrub that likes to climb up on pergolas, arbors, fences and walls. Under optimal Site conditions the kiwi grows several meters a year. This is seldom desired, so that strong-growing branches should be shortened.

Cut time

Fruit woodcut will be in late autumn after the harvest carried out. The extensive fruitwood renewal pruning and the shortening of the long shoots are carried out in February / March, when the bare structure can be better seen.

Types of cuts

Cutting is an important one Maintenance measureto harvest a lot of healthy fruits. The following pruning measures are used for kiwifruit:

• Upbringing,
• Clearance cut,
• Fruit woodcut,
• Rejuvenation / renewal cut.

Upbringing

In the first two years of standing, the direction of growth of the main and side shoots is determined and the basic structure of the plant is formed. This is easiest to do on

Trellis. To do this, wires are stretched between sturdy wooden posts. You start at a height of about 60 cm above the ground and stretch at least two more wires about 50 cm apart. Each wire is covered with only one tendril, the main shoot is tied to a vertical rod. Competing shoots are removed immediately.

Fruit woodcut

With the harvest you cut the fruit shoots on stumps from two to four Buds. After three years it can Fruitwood be removed completely, which then pulls new side shoots to fruit wood. In order to ensure an even yield, you should not cut away more than a third of the entire old fruit wood.

Rejuvenate and renew

Older main shoots can be removed about every seven years and replaced with young ones. Low-yielding plants can be pruned radically, the overaged wood removed and thus renewed. The plant can be rebuilt by diverting young, well-growing competing shoots. This can also be done in the event of frost damage to the kiwi plant.

Tips & Tricks

You can practically not overlap with the strongly growing kiwis. The more radical the cut, the more the plant will sprout again.