Tutorial with instructions and video

Sage species differences

The diverse genus sage gives home gardeners splendid ones Ornamental perennials and aromatic Spice bushes equally. Each of the two categories inspires with convincing attributes, so that both variants can be found in many gardens. Knowledgeable pruning care should take into account the variety of growths in order for each species of sage to show its best. Representative for the extensive genus, the following overview summarizes important cut-relevant differences for two popular species:

Blossom sage, steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa)

• Herbaceous growth
• Lavish flowering season from May to October
• Inedible leaves and flowers
• All above-ground parts of the plant die off after the first frost
• Fresh shoots in spring from hardy rhizomes

Spice sage, garden sage, real sage (Salvia officinalis)

• Broad bushy growth as a subshrub
• Progressive lignification from base to tip
• Herbaceous annual shoots with aromatic, edible leaves
• Few purple-blue flowers from June to August
• Woody shoots mostly glabrous

Although sage is native to the Mediterranean, both species and the varieties that emerged from them prove to be well winter-hardy in the Central European climate.

Cut the blossom sage twice a year

In the creative garden design is for flower sage im Perennial bed a regular seat reserved. The inedibility of its felty leaves makes up for the steppe sage with a lavish display of flowers in summer, accompanied by a wonderful scent. Since flowering sage is one of the remounting perennials, it celebrates its colorful appearance twice a season. Accordingly, the scissors are used in spring and summer. How to properly cut flower sage:

• Cut off all shoots in February / March at ground level
• Afterward fertilize with compost and horn shavings
• Cut back withered flower stems from mid-July to early August
• Cut about a hand's width above the floor

The summer cut should leave some leaves on the stems so that the perennial can sprout and bloom again. Then apply a mineral fertilizer that quickly unfolds its effect and promotes growth. If the second flower pile is coming to an end, no cut is made. The dead shoots and leaves act as natural winter protection. You can only clean off withered flower spikes, if self-sowing is not desired.

Spice Sage - Cutting Instructions

The pruning of spiced sage is a permanent fight against progressive lignification. True sage primarily contributes its aromatic leaves to the herbaceous annual shoots. These freeze back completely in the harsh winter and sprout again in spring. From below, the plant constantly strives to lignify its shoots. Without regular pruning, the lignification process gains the upper hand and puts an end to the growth of spicy leaves. In terms of pruning, sage therefore pulls together with other Mediterranean beauties, such as lavender and rosemary. How to do it right:

• The best time is between the end of February and mid-March when the weather is frost-free
• At the beginning, thin out all dead shoots at ground level
• Cut back the remaining shoots to just above the lignified areas

Following the central shape and maintenance pruning, sage gratefully accepts an organic fertilizer. A combination of ripe compost and horn shavings stimulates the growth of the herb plant. In August, winter hardiness benefits from a potassium-emphasized fertilizer, such as comfrey liquid manure.

Sharpening optimizes crop yield

Just a few weeks after the main cut in late winter, sage is once again the focus of cut care. In this case the scissors can of course remain in the shed. If you peel off the fresh shoots from mid-May, the measure scores with several advantages. The beginning of the flowering period is shifted so that the aromatic content of the leaves is retained longer. Furthermore, you encourage further herbaceous branching, which increases the crop yield and curbs lignification.

To pinch, as the sharpening is called in technical jargon, hold the tip of a sage stick between your thumb and forefinger. With the Fingernails snap off the tip of the shoot where the next pair of leaves or buds is waiting. Of course, you can also use clean, sharp scissors to pinch.

Digression

Hedge trimmers master sage giants

Taper cut reverses lignification

If older shoots are more than half or even two thirds lignified, there is the option of rejuvenation using Derivative cut. Look for an herbaceous side shoot along the woody sage branch. If you do not find what you are looking for, a swelling bud signals that the subshrub still has potential for herbaceous, aromatic growth. The further down there are side shoots or buds, the more profound the rejuvenation effect.

Use the scissors just above the vegetation point. A distance of 5 to 10 millimeters guarantees that you neither cut into the herbaceous shoot or the bud nor leave an excessively long stub. As the figure below illustrates, the recommended pruning significantly reduces the local degree of lignification and paves the way for herbaceous shoots with numerous sage leaves.

Derive older shoots every year to a lower, herbaceous side shoot or a vital bud. Where both components are missing, scan the shoot at ground level. In this way you promote the growth of numerous young shoots with aromatic leaves.

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Spice sage skimpy on buds

Harvest and cut at the same time

Sage gardeners with limited time handle harvest and pruning at the same time. This also has the advantage that you harvest sage exactly when its aroma is at its zenith. The only prerequisite for the rational approach is sufficient capacity to handle the harvest surplus to freeze or to dry. How to proceed step by step:

• The best time is just before the start of flowering
• Shower off the sage bush the day before for a clean harvest
• Cut off whole shoots to just above the lignification
• Clear dead wood, poor or diseased stems at floor level

Under no circumstances should you cut into the old wood, as this is where growth usually comes to a standstill. If you limit the circumference of the cut to the herbaceous, leafy area, a new shoot will start, which will bring you another harvest if the weather conditions are suitable. This year's harvest and pruning season for sage ends in mid-August so that the subshrub can mature before winter.

Does the combined harvest and care cut provide a greater yield than the kitchen can use? Then look for unlignified ones Head cuttings out. With a length of 5 to 10 centimeters, the shoot tips are perfect for propagation. Remove all leaves in the lower half and put each offshoot in a pot with it Potting soil. In the warm, partially shaded location with regular water supply, the rooting progresses quickly.

frequently asked Questions

Is sage hardy?

The most popular types of sage for beds and balconies are sufficiently hardy. This applies to real sage (Salvia officinalis) and blossom sage (Salvia nemorosa) as well as all the varieties derived from them. Silver leaf sage (Salvia argentea) and muscatel sage (Salvia sclarea) also prove to be frost-resistant with light winter protection. If you are flirting with extravagant sage species from subtropical regions, there is no question of winter hardiness. This applies to, among other things, crested sage (Salvia viridis), honeydew melon sage (Salvia elegans) and fruit sage (Salvia dorisiana).

Are steppe sage flowers and leaves edible?

Steppe sage (Salvia nemorosa) is also called flower sage because its advantages relate to decorative aspects. The popular sage variety adorns the summer shrub bed with picturesque blossoms from May to October, accompanied by a seductive scent. If you aim to harvest spicy leaves and aromatic flowers, please use the common sage (Salvia officinalis) or one of its diverse varieties.

Would we like to transplant our three-year-old spice sage to a sunnier location? When and how does it work best?

The best time to relocate spiced sage is in early spring, as long as the plant has not yet sprouted. The less root volume is lost during excavation, the better the plant can cope with the procedure. In the new location, plant the sage in such a way that the previous planting depth is preserved. Combine the transplanting work with a vigorous pruning to restore the balance between underground and above-ground growth. A sufficient water supply is important in the subsequent period to support the re-rooting.

Is blossom sage a suitable rose partner?

From a botanical point of view, roses and blossom sage go well together. Both types of plants place similar conditions on the site and do not interfere with each other with their roots. The essential oils also help repel aphids and other rose pests. Last but not least, blossom sage and roses would like to be pruned at the same time in spring.

The withered flowers of my garden sage bother me a lot. Can I prune the perennial now in October?

We strongly advise against radical pruning so shortly before winter. The herbaceous shoots also serve as important winter protection when they are dead. There is nothing wrong with cutting off the withered flower panicles if the well-groomed appearance in the bed is impaired. After the first frost, blossom sage should no longer be blended.

Flower sage 'Pusztaflamme' should actually grow upright. In my garden it falls apart and is partly on the ground. What to do?

Extreme heat and drought can cause Blossom Sage to fall apart. A thrown ball or a careless kick are also typical causes of the mishap. The perennial naturally grows upright. By cutting all of the shoots back to a hand's breadth above the ground, you will encourage renewed growth, this time upright.

The 3 most common mistakes

If you cut spiced sage as well as flower sage, in the worst case you will struggle with a total failure of the valuable herb plant. If real sage cheats through regular pruning, the shoots lignify rapidly and no longer produce a tasty harvest. This table draws attention to common cutting errors in sage, points out typical damage patterns and gives brief tips for effective prevention:

Another common cutting error affects both spice and blossom sage. After the onset of winter, tidy house gardeners can be tempted to cut off the dead plant parts prematurely. With this measure, the Mediterranean plant loses its natural winter protection. Note the date for the pruning of sage on the care plan at the end of February at the earliest, provided that no strong periods of frost are to be expected.

Tips

Cutting spiced sage leaves more clippings than the kitchen to process can. How good that sage leaves retain much of their aroma after drying. Bundle whole shoots into bunches. Hang this upside down in an airy, dry place. Sage leaves are dry within one to two weeks and can be stored in the airtight jar until use.