origin
All varieties of Panicle hydrangeas belong to the species Hydrangea paniculata, which is subdivided into the hydrangea family. The plants are native to the temperate latitudes of Asia. They grow on the Russian Kuril Islands and Sakhalin. Main areas of distribution are in China and Japan. Here the species grows in damp forests and floodplains and on river banks. Panicle hydrangeas grow at altitudes between 300 and 3,100 meters. In the USA the species is considered naturalized.
also read
- For good growth and magnificent flowers: properly care for panicle hydrangeas
- Panicle hydrangeas are particularly hardy
- Panicle hydrangeas bloom late
growth
Panicle hydrangeas grow as lignified shrubs and small trees. They develop many fork-shaped branches, the bark of which is light gray in color at a young age and has ocher-colored nuances. The branches turn dark with age. Old shoots are surrounded by a grayish brown bark. It comes off like paper. Hydrangea paniculata reaches heights of between one and five meters. In width they expand up to three meters. Panicle hydrangeas have an annual growth of 25 centimeters, which increases with pruning.
leaves
The foliage of the panicle hydrangea stands in pairs of two or three whorls on the branch. The leaves are divided into a one to three centimeter long stalk and a five to 14 centimeter long leaf blade. The blade is broad to oval or egg-shaped. It tapers to a point and has a rounded or wedge-shaped base. Your edge is fine said.
The leaf surface appears dull green due to the rough hairs, while the underside, which is only hairy on the nerves, is gray-green in color. The autumn color varies depending on the location. Panicle hydrangeas develop greenish to yellow autumn tones under dry and nutrient-poor conditions.
blossom
Hydrangea paniculata has paniculate inflorescences that are up to 26 centimeters long and arise at the end of a shoot. In the lower area of the inflorescence there are sterile flowers that act as a lock. Their sepals are noticeably enlarged and brightly colored. At the top are fertile flowers composed of sepals and petals. The petals are white in color and less noticeable than the lower flowers.
Heyday
The white, cream-colored, wine-red or pink flowers appear between July and October. The flowering time varies depending on the variety. During the summer, some varieties change the color of their flowers.
fruit
The capsule fruits ripen from October to November. They are elliptical in shape and contain between 30 and 100 seeds with a brown color. They have small wings at both ends that make it easier for them to spread through the wind. Some varieties are sterile and do not develop fruit.
use
Panicle hydrangeas are suitable as a solitary in the front yard. They decorate perennial beds wherever they like with other tall species delphinium harmonize. The bushes can be used to create colorful flower hedges. You can plant panicle hydrangeas together with other moderately growing species.
These are suitable plant partners:
- Hibiscus (hibiskus syriacus)
- different rhododendron species
- Bee friend (Phacelia tanacetifolia)
Smaller varieties are suitable for planting pots. When the flowers turn a pale pink in autumn, you can cut off the inflorescences and put them in a vase. When dried, the flowers remain attractive for a long time and decorate winter beds or dry bouquets.
Is panicle hydrangea poisonous?
Like all hydrangea plants, panicle hydrangeas contain various toxins such as hydrocyanic acid, hydrangenol, hydrangin and saponins. Since the concentration in all parts of the plant is low, slight symptoms of poisoning are to be expected after consumption of larger quantities. Just like humans, dogs and cats can suffer from gastrointestinal complaints. The most common complaints in pets include vomiting and diarrhea. Children are quickly put off by the bitter taste of the flowers and leaves, so that there are hardly any symptoms of intoxication.
Which location is suitable?
As a warmth-loving species, she likes Panicle hydrangea a sunny or shady location. They also thrive in Penumbra. Although many varieties are offered as shade-friendly, the shrubs suffer from a lack of light. Choose a place that is sheltered from the wind. In strong winds there is a risk that the inflorescences will break off.
What soil does the plant need?
Hydrangea paniculata prefers fresh to moist soil with a pH in the acidic to neutral range. Small accumulations of calcium in the substrate do not cause any problems for the plants. Sandy-gravel substrates provide ideal conditions, as they are highly permeable. Panicle hydrangeas prefer humus-rich soils with a high proportion of nutrients.
Cuttings
Select a few annual shoots that are soft and about four to twelve inches long. Remove lower leaves and shoot tips. Cut larger leaves in half to reduce evaporation. Put the shoot in sufficiently moist Growing substrate.(€ 12.99 at Amazon *) It takes two to three weeks for the cutting to develop roots.
Cuttings
In autumn, cut up wilted flower stems into several pieces the length of a pencil and stick them in humus-rich and moist garden soil. After a few weeks, the cuttings will develop roots in a sheltered and partially shaded place.
Panicle hydrangeas in a pot
Smaller varieties are suitable for planting in pots if sufficient water drainage is provided through drainage and drainage holes. Young panicle hydrangeas are not hardy and have to overwinter in a frost-free place for the first year. From the second year onwards, you can leave the bucket outside with winter protection.
Water panicle hydrangeas
The water requirement is higher in sunny places than in partial shade. Make sure that the soil remains constantly fresh to slightly moist. Short drying times do not cause any problems for the bushes. In the summer, water the plants thoroughly during the evening hours and make sure that no water collects in the saucer when using potted plants.
Fertilize panicle hydrangeas properly
In spring, the perennial enjoys mineral fertilization. Additionally sprinkle organic fertilizers such as Horn shavings(€ 32.93 at Amazon *) on the substrate. So that she has enough nutrients available all summer long, we recommend a Slow release fertilizer. Alternatively, you should perennials every eight to 14 days fertilize.
Cut panicle hydrangeas correctly
Panicle hydrangeas grow from the fresh wood and should not be cut back too far. The bushes are cut back vigorously in spring. You can shorten the plant by a third to a half. Such pruning measures stimulate the perennial to produce fresh shoots, but are not necessary.
Alternatively, you can thinning your shrub regularly in summer or remove withered inflorescences in late summer. This will extend the flowering time, because panicle hydrangeas develop new flower panicles with long stems after the late pruning. Strong clearings are only recommended for plants that grow in a sheltered location, as the fresh shoot is at risk of wind breakage.
Important when cutting:
- leave at least two pairs of eyes
- Cut the shoots by half
- Completely remove weak branches or bloom shoots that are too close together
How do I transplant properly?
Panicle hydrangeas that have been in one location for less than five years can be replanted without any problems. Older shrubs have developed extensive roots, so that a change of location is associated with root loss. The ideal time for the measure is after flowering, so that the shrub can grow in the new location until the onset of winter.
Cut off bare shoots and withered stems, and prick off a large root ball. Lift the roots out of the hole and plant the shrub in the new location. Broken roots should be removed as they are of no benefit to the plant.
Hardy
Panicle hydrangeas are not a problem in frosty temperatures. In particularly cold and snow-free winter months, you should protect the shrub with brushwood. This will prevent the shoots from freezing back and the shrub will be able to sprout better in the next spring. The fresh shoot can be endangered by late frosts. Cover the shrub with fleece or foil so that the shoots are protected from freezing.
Container plants in a pot with a depth between 30 and 40 centimeters overwinter from the second year in a sheltered location outdoors. Wrap the vessel with jute sacks and place it on a wooden board. Smaller pots should overwinter in a frost-free room with temperatures between three and five degrees Celsius.
Diseases
In the field, panicle hydrangeas prove to be resistant to diseases and pests. A rare disease is chlorosis, which is manifested by yellowing of the leaves. It is the result of a strongly alkaline soil or an iron deficiency. The plant will recover quickly if you fertilize it at the first signs and mix some acidic soil under the substrate. Peat or is suitable for this Rhododendron soil.
Panicle hydrangea does not bloom
Young plants need a few years before they show their bloom in their new location. If older specimens fail to flower, a wrong location may be the cause. If the conditions are too dark, the bushes will not bloom. They need a partially shaded to sunny location. Unsuitable substrate conditions can also prevent flowering. Make sure that the soil is not too sandy and calcareous.
Tips
Ripened and firm inflorescences can be cut off to dry and placed in a vase just filled with water. As soon as the water is used up, the flowers dry out. The slightly crumpled petals make them look like parchment.
sorts
- Grandiflora: Strongly branched. Cone-shaped flower panicles, up to 30 centimeters long with white flowers. Blooms from August to late autumn. Grows up to 200 centimeters.
- Limelight: Cone-shaped inflorescences, initially creamy white and later pink-red, pleasantly fragrant. Blooms from July to October. Reaches heights of growth of up to 200 centimeters.
- Magical Mont Blanc: More compact and slow growth. Snow-white flowers from June to September. Up to 120 centimeters high.
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