Pruning old apple tree: rejuvenating pruning

Apple trees are also getting older and naturally changing. In addition, some specimens have not seen loppers for a long time. Both have obvious consequences: The harvest is becoming more and more modest and the crown is no longer beautiful. Maybe diseases are also spreading. But an old apple tree can still have many years ahead of it. It is worthwhile to give it new momentum with the right cut. We'll show you how it can be done.

Pruning old apple tree

Before: a neglected treetop

Every apple tree needs maintenance pruning on a regular basis, usually every two to three years. If the conservation pruning does not take place for many years, the tree will grow in a completely uncontrolled manner. This can be clearly seen on the crown:

• Scaffold shoots branch out strongly in the upper area
• remind of a broom
• the shoots sink downwards
• the inside of the crown gets less and less light over time
• consequently becomes more and more bald
• the long fruit shoots hang over
• hardly any young shoots are formed
• the apple tree is aging more and more
• vital fruit wood is in short supply
• if so, then it is only in the edge area of ​​the crown
• each on the top and on the outside
• dense crown promotes diseases
• the quality of the fruit also declines

The salvation: a rejuvenating cut

A special cut that is called Taper cut can revitalize such old, neglected apple trees. The aim is to promote new, healthy fruit wood. With this type of cut, however, it is not enough to remove a large part of the shoots and thereby align the crown. Every branch and every shoot, no matter how thin, must be carefully examined to see whether it is allowed to stay or has to be removed. The following points must be carefully observed:

• best time for cutting
• suitable cutting tool
• Establishing a framework
• Size of the cut surfaces

The individual points are explained in more detail below. The apple tree owner should familiarize themselves with this before using the shears.

time

Old apple trees are sensitive to the cold, which is why winter is less suitable for radical pruning. Before you reach for the scissors, you should let the icy days pass. Spring is the best time to close the old apple tree cutso that it forms fruit-bearing shoots afterwards.

If a lot has to be removed during regeneration, some tree specimens can sprout again strongly at the interfaces. In order for the rejuvenation cut to produce the intended result, this new shoot must be cut in the following years and thus reduced to a minimum. Again, the summer is more suitable for this, as the new growth calms down more quickly afterwards. Even if the competing shoots of a scaffold shoot are very strong, they should be cut in summer.

Suitable cutting tool

The use of a suitable cutting tool is of enormous importance. Not only does it make cutting off the branches effortless. The interfaces left behind will also be smooth and clean. This is important so that the open wounds can heal quickly. This means that harmful germs cannot easily penetrate the interior of the wood. Which tool is the right one depends on the Drive strength away. Loppers are ideal for thinner branches. A thick shoot, on the other hand, is better cut off with a saw. The following applies to every tool:

• pay more attention to quality than price
• Blades have to be sharpened
• the tool should be clean
• Disinfection before and after the cut is mandatory

tip: For a large, old apple tree, a securely standing ladder is required in addition to suitable tools. Climbing the tree for the cut can be dangerous. Nobody can cut thick branches and hold on tight at the same time.

Establishing a framework

Before you dare to make a rejuvenation pruning, you should first take a close look at the old apple tree. If it was cut regularly in the past, the original branch structure may still be clearly visible. You can use this as a guide for the taper cut. If this is not the case, you will have to establish a new framework by removing all competing shoots later when you cut the old apple tree. If many shoots are suitable as scaffolding shoots, you still have to decide on about four of them. Otherwise the crown can remain too tight and let little light through into the interior.

Size of the cut surfaces

If an old apple tree has not been pruned for several years, its branches have had enough time to grow in size undisturbed. However, it is important not to leave cuts that are more than 10 cm in diameter when cutting. Larger cuts dry up and are no longer covered with new plant material. Decomposing fungi and bacteria can spread in these places and eventually destroy the whole tree. If the ideal framework requires such cuts, it should not be chosen. In this case, it is better to use a less favorable scaffold structure than to provoke undesired diseases afterwards.

Taper cut: instructions

1. After it is clear which branches should form the scaffolding, the first step is to remove all competing shoots.
2. If powerful steep shoots have formed on the side scaffold shoots that are parallel to the central shoot, they must be thinned out towards the middle. If these branches are already strong, you'd better wait until summer with them. Redirect such a branch to a lower branch.
3. Redirect heavily branched, overhanging "brooms" to a young shoot. This should be further inside and steep. Ideally, it is selected in such a way that it harmoniously continues the direction of growth of the scaffold shoot.
4. Also remove any remaining shoots that grow inward or steeply upwards.
5. Completely remove strong fruit shoots. As a substitute, leave young shoots that arise directly from the scaffold.
6. Redirect fruit shoots that are too long. For this, there are further inside, angled upwards or downwards. outward-pointing shoots with flower buds.

Instructions for severely aged apple trees

First, get an overview of the scope of the pruning measures. In the case of a severely aged apple tree, it may be that a Third of the crown must be removed. It makes sense to rejuvenate such an old and unkempt apple tree in several stages, spread over 2-3 years. There are two reasons for this:

• The tree can cope better with the dosed pruning measures.
• Furthermore, the new growth is not stimulated as strongly as it would be the case with a one-time rejuvenation.

If the old apple tree reacts hesitantly with new shoots after the first cut, it makes little sense to continue cutting in the following years. It is better to remove the old apple tree from the garden and plant a replacement tree. However, if the harvest is not in the foreground, the tree can of course remain. In this case, make smaller cuts in the outer area of ​​the crown so that the tree can better withstand winds.

Cuts in subsequent years

A rejuvenation cut is a major intervention for every apple tree, which it tries to compensate as quickly as possible. With the aim of restoring the balance between the roots and the crown. That is why many new shoots form at the interfaces in the 2 to 3 years after cutting. You have to remove at least half of this, even better two thirds, of this every year.

• wait until summer to do that
• the stimulated urge to grow calms down more quickly
• first remove the shoots growing steeply upwards
• also cut shoots growing inwards
• Leave the shoots growing flat outwards
• they form the new fruit wood
• Never shorten the annual shoots
• that would stimulate their growth again

After: a neat crown

If the growth of an apple tree has calmed down after the rejuvenation cut, the crown is optimally built up. The scaffolding is clearly visible, light penetrates into the interior again. New fruit shoots are formed. Now you can hope for a rich harvest with good fruit quality. But the willingness to cut must not let up again. Every two to three years you have to clean the apple tree with a so-called. Maintain conservation cut.