Compost: Everything you need to know about composting properly

Composting is an old and sometimes complex practice. Read here what compost is, how it is made, how it is used and everything else about black gold.

The compost - it has been with mankind for a very long time. It was only discovered centuries after settling down that it was one of the first ways to keep cultivated land fertile. As part of the history of manure, compost made a tremendous contribution to the advancement of human civilization. In this article we have summarized information on all areas relating to compost, and we will also forward you to more detailed special articles.

What is compost

You will find a summary on the subject below - if you would like more information, you will find the full special article on the compost.

Compost is man-made (Latin compositum = "The compiled") organic material that has gone through the process of rotting. Although compost is humus, humus cannot be called compost because it is created naturally without human intervention. During composting, old structures of the raw material are first broken down by the activity of worms, insects and various microorganisms. Little by little, molecular and atomic building blocks are separated in order to then be combined to form new molecules called humic acids. Visible humus flakes are then created in connection with clay particles. Compost is very variable, but in general it is brown to black, has a woody smell, is heavier than peat, lighter than sand and has many medium-sized pores. The color and structure, pH value, nutrient content and stability of the compost change depending on the raw materials, duration and conditions of rotting. The designation always provides information about the properties, as we have listed for you below.

description	Emergence	properties	use
Fresh compost	Rotting time of 4 - 8 weeks, composting not completed	Nutrient content high, stability low	Plant fertilizer
Ready-made compost	Min. 6 months rotting time	Medium nutrient content, medium stability	Plant and soil fertilizers
Mature compost	2 - 3 years of rotting time	Low nutrient content, high stability	Soil fertilizer
Green compost	From green waste (green space maintenance, gardening and landscaping)	Low nutrient content, high stability	Soil fertilizer
Organic compost	From organic waste (organic waste bin)	Nutrient content high, stability high	Plant fertilizer

As you can see, the properties of compost can be changed via the rotting time and the raw materials. The stability indicates how easily the compost can be broken down again by microorganisms after it has been spread in the soil. A high level of stability means that the compost is a good soil fertilizer: it improves the soil properties over the long term, but provides hardly any nutrients for plants. A compost that can be used as a plant fertilizer is quickly broken down because of its poor stability, with nutrients being released and available for plants. However, it does not remain in the soil permanently and therefore does not improve its properties. The names must always be considered together: A fresh green compost is more nutrient-rich than a finished green compost - but always much lower in nutrients than a fresh organic compost.

Compost can be used in a variety of ways. In the form of compost tea, it can also act as a liquid soil conditioner that can be used to inoculate soil or composts with beneficial microorganisms. The benefits of using compost as soil or plant fertilizer are also known in agriculture and horticulture.

Compost heap: benefits and function

Below is a summary of the benefits and functions of Compost heap - Read more here in the full special article on the subject.

Benefits of a compost heap

Your own composting has many advantages: The reduction in the size of the organic waste bin, the quick and easy disposal of Garden waste and the preservation of high-quality, versatile fertilizer for soil and plants are probably the most important. An ecological drive can also play a role: Composting yourself is the most environmentally friendly way of handling your waste. Unfortunately, you can hardly sell your compost and monetize it - if you want to get rid of it, giving it away or disposing of it are your options.

Function of a compost heap

Composting in a pile or composter takes place quietly, secretly and apparently slowly. In fact, a lot happens in the process. The activity of the organisms involved can even cause high temperatures of over 60 ° C. What happens there is part of the carbon cycle: the old structures of the organic ones, which are mainly composed of carbon (C) Waste is broken down, microorganisms absorb carbon-containing compounds, use them to generate energy and breathe carbon dioxide (CO₂) the end. High nutrient and above all nitrogen contents accelerate the decomposition by making the work of the microorganisms easier. After the structures have been broken down, new molecules are then formed in chemical and biological processes, namely the above-mentioned humic acids.

Since the composting is carried out almost entirely by microorganisms, their living conditions determine how quickly and how hot the composting takes place. The availability of oxygen and water, the temperature, the pH value and the nutrient content are all influencing factors. The person who carries out the composting can also influence this. Of course, this requires a certain amount of work: the right sorting, layers, a possible one Moving, liming and supplementing nutrients are activities that have to be carried out before the start of compost extraction are done. Depending on the type of composter used - rent, composting box, quick and thermal composter or worm box - the work differs. Basically, however, everything revolves around optimizing the living conditions of the little helpers - the composting organisms.

Building compost: instructions

Below we give you a summary of the topic Build compost - You can also find detailed information in the special article.

Building your own composter has its advantages: Not only do you usually save money, you also create the composter according to your own wishes and needs. Do-it-yourself construction is often not that complicated and requires neither great craftsmanship nor particularly unusual tools. A rotting box can be made with a little wood, nails, a plastic tarpaulin and boards. For a quick composter, a perforated metal or plastic barrel is sufficient, which with a little insulation can even become a thermal composter. Building a worm box is just as easy and inexpensive: You can build an expandable worm hotel from a few nested plastic boxes, a drain cock and two flower pots. Of the Bokashi bucket (in which, strictly speaking, fermentation and not composting takes place) is even faster Completed: Two buckets are plugged into each other for this, sealed and a tap becomes appropriate. If the lid is on, the Bokashi bucket is ready for use. Of course, you can also use other materials than those just mentioned. Also made from paving stones or bricks, a metal fence or expanded metal, even from pallets good composter, taking into account the needs of the composting microorganisms produce.

Buying a composter, on the other hand, can be surprisingly cheap as well as expensive: Price and composter quality are not necessarily in a clear relationship to one another. The appearance and durability often determine the price. Basically it can be said that a composter can cost between 50 and 500 euros. The cheapest models weaken either in functionality or durability, the most expensive models often score either with exceptional durability, a special and aesthetic design or with in which.

Use a compost bin

In this context, a frequently asked question about composting plants in the garden is after Border distance: Can you get legal problems if you put your compost directly at the border fence? operates? The answer is: maybe. Although compost is not considered a structural facility - and therefore it can be located directly on the border - it does produce unpleasant ones Odors, if it attracts pests or annoys your neighbor in any other significant way, then he can legally counteract it proceed.

Below are some summarizing remarks on the subject Compost bin - If you want to read on, we recommend our complete special article here.

Compost bins come in different sizes, shapes, materials and with or without a ventilation system and odor filter. Before you buy a bucket for your bio-waste, it's a good idea to briefly examine the effects of the following variables.

variable	Effect on ...
size	Frequency of emptying, odor development, cleaning
shape	Convenience when emptying (sticking of waste)
material	Cleaning (suitability for dishwasher), durability
ventilation	Odor development, cleaning, liquid development
Odor filter	Odor development, fly infestation

The sticking of foul smelling, damp and mushy waste is a nuisance during emptying and makes cleaning less convenient. You can do this with a particularly smooth and round interior and the use of compost bags or paper on the bottom of the bucket, good ventilation, and choosing a rather small bucket escape.

There is often confusion about what can actually be disposed of in organic waste: This depends on whether you want to dispose of your waste in the organic waste bin or on your own compost heap. As a rule, the following belong in the organic waste bin:

• Vegetable and fruit leftovers (also from citrus fruits)
• Salad leftovers (also with dressing)
• Coffee and tea residues, with bags (if without metal)
• All dairy products - in smaller quantities (except milk)
• Bones (in normal household quantities)
• Eggshells
• Nutshells
• Wilted bouquets of flowers and potted plants with soil (without ties or metal)
• Shrub and tree pruning, bark and twigs
• Lawn clippings
• Perennials (plastic tie must be removed)
• Wild herbs
• moss

Packaging scraps, broken glass, stones and clay, plastic and metal foils, on the other hand, never belong in the organic waste. In the case of small animal litter, boiled, salted, leftover meat and larger quantities of dairy products, the district or the local waste disposal center decides. Behind this link is a useful website that will give you the Way to correct disposal shows.

If you want to dispose of your waste on your own compost, the following also applies: Animal products, cooked and salted foods are taboo. The microorganisms in your compost are “raw vegans”. You should also make sure that diseased or seed-bearing plants do not end up in your compost in large quantities. However, this does not apply if temperatures of over 60 ° C are reached in your composting. However, this is almost never the case with private composting.

Especially in the warm seasons and especially in rural areas, flies on and in the compost bin can be a real nuisance. Not only are they annoying, extreme occurrences are also hygiene pests. In this article we will explain the Control of fruit flies in detail and also in the above-mentioned special article on the Compost bin you will find a lot of pointers on this subject.

Instead of a bucket to collect your organic waste, you can also compost directly in your apartment: Worm boxes are now also available in inconspicuous designs that can also be used as seating furniture permit. There is no longer any need to go to the organic waste bin. Instead, you can harvest worm compost and "worm tea" in your own kitchen. The Bokashi bucket also produces a potent plant fertilizer from your organic waste in just a few weeks, along with what is known as “Bokashi tea”, which is also a liquid that can be used as a fertilizer. Using the Bokashi bucket is explained in more detail in this article.

How to Compost Properly: Tips and Tricks

In the following you will find some summarizing remarks - more on the subject compost properly can be found here in the full special article.

Anyone who wants to compost properly should understand the processes that take place in compost. Composting is known to convert organic waste into compost. This takes place in two phases: In the course of the main rotting process, the fresh compost is produced, which is then first made into ready-made and then mature compost in the post-rotting process. The longer the rotting can run, the more stable and nutrient-poor the compost will be. In the case of private composting, a cold rotting process usually takes place. This does not reach high temperatures above 60 ° C, so that pathogens and weed seeds are not killed. It happens differently at recycling yards and in professional composting plants: By putting on the windrow, everything happens in one go the main rot stormy and with suitable insulation the temperature rises to 80 ° C - a sterile compost is created.

Before you start composting, first choose a composter. You can choose from a classic rental, a rotting box - i.e. an enclosed rental -, quick composter, thermal composter, Roller composters, worm boxes for use in the house or garden or Bokashi buckets (in which, as I said, strictly speaking a Fermentation is in progress). The different types of composters differ not only in terms of volume, but also in their use The speed of composting, the work required and the product of composting differ themselves.

After choosing the composter, it is set up in a location that is as conducive as possible. This should be partially shaded, protected and large enough to carry out the necessary work. In addition, there should be healthy and loose soil under the composter. And if possible, it should not be located directly on the border with the neighbor or too far away from the place where your compost waste is generated.

The living conditions of the composting microorganisms determine how well and quickly composting takes place. The following table shows you the influencing factors and possible measures on your part.

factor	influence	Influencing
Humidity	Microorganisms need water to live and multiply	Shaded, partially shaded location, possibly moisten (summer)
temperature	High temperatures promote the activity of microorganisms	Partially shaded location, isolation of the composter, covering with insulating material, large volume leads to higher temperatures
oxygen	Microorganisms breathe oxygen	Use of structural material, loose layers, repositioning, composter should enable circulation
nutrient	Microorganisms need nutrients to live and multiply, and material that is too rich in nutrients leads to volume loss and unstable compost	Composting a mixture of nutrient-rich and nutrient-poor material, fertilizing too-nutrient-poor material with nitrogen
PH value	A higher pH value promotes the activity of microorganisms, lower pH value promotes fungi	Use of lime when there is too much “acidic” material on the compost

Tip: Mushrooms are also involved in composting. However, under their influence, a poor quality compost is created, which is lighter and more acidic. He can like in the garden with bog plants Rhododendrons (rhododendron), Blueberries (Vaccinium-Species), Sham berries (Gaultheria procumbens) and Lavender heather (Pieris japonica) be used.

Compost worms

Below we give you a summary of the topic Compost worms - Here you will find the complete special article with further information.

Compost worms are those that are used in compost heaps, composting plants, composters or worm boxes specifically to accelerate or influence composting. Although they belong to the common earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris) look confusingly similar - unless you have a zoologically trained eye - it is not even the same species. The species Eisenia fetida, Eisenia andrei and Eisenia hortensis are common compost worms that you can also purchase in large numbers. They are adapted to life in shallow, very nutrient-rich areas and are also comfortable in narrow worm boxes. In addition, they are characterized by a particularly large appetite and complementary feed preferences, which is why they are rightly offered and bought together. In contrast, many worms found in the “wild” live in deeper zones and have special ones Food preferences or are more frugal eaters - which is why many species fail to aid composting can be used.

Compost worms eat by pushing their mouth opening against the substrate - their food and their habitat - by using their body muscles. In doing so, they absorb both organic and inorganic material - such as clay particles, small grains of sand and the like. After digestion, the worms' feces are excreted together with calcium and a layer of mucus, which already creates stable "aggregates", i.e. crumbs. Bacteria and fungi then colonize these and convert the worm droppings into elastic, absorbent and even more stable humus flakes.

Because the digestion of the worms speeds up the composting process, professional composting plants have long since “got down to business”. In a private setting, compost worms are used in compost heaps and - much more intensively - in worm boxes. These are simple or divided boxes into which you put the compost material together with the worms. Models for indoor and outdoor use can be purchased or manufactured yourself with relatively little effort. Thanks to their inconspicuous design and the additional use as seating furniture, the worms' dwellings have even become socially acceptable. The very space-saving composting of your organic waste is therefore an ecological and economical alternative to the organic waste bin - and can even be operated in a city apartment.

Of course, being responsible for a few hundred to a few thousand worms also means some work and knowledge: In order for worms to live well, digest a lot and multiply, their basic needs must be met be. This includes, for example, that it has to be dark, not too humid and that sufficient main and trace nutrients have to be available. Lack of oxygen due to the compost material being layered too compactly robs them of their air and they could suffocate. And although they can use an astonishingly large amount of waste, too much or incompatible food can also have negative effects.

Compost soil: fertilize plants with compost

Below we give you a summary of the topic of compost. Compost and the Fertilizing with compostare also dealt with in depth in the respective special articles.

To avoid confusion, here is the difference between compost and compost soil:

• Compost is the product of targeted composting, also known as rotting. It has very variable properties, which are heavily dependent on the raw materials, the rotting time and the rotting conditions. For this reason, the use of compost can vary between using it as a soil fertilizer and using it as a plant fertilizer. All gradations in between are also possible. A soil fertilizing compost is low in nutrients, very stable against microbial degradation and improves many soil properties in the long term. So it can make the soil fertile for a long time, but it hardly supplies any plant nutrients. A plant-fertilizing compost, on the other hand, is rich in nutrients, very unstable to microbial degradation and provides plants with many nutrients. However, it does not remain in the soil - or only to a small extent - so that fertility is not increased in the long term.
• Compost soils are mixed soils that contain compost, among other things. Since pure compost is not an optimal livelihood for many plants, additives are used. These modify the properties of the mixture so that it is optimally adapted to the respective plant culture. Compost soils for summer flowers and potted plants, vegetables, shrubs or herbs are available with different compositions.

The use of compost is the same as with normal potting soil, however, when switching from peat-containing to peat-free soils, a few small things may change. So your fertilization with compost soil may be less. Some peat-free mixes can sag or require a little more watering. Since the mining of peat in Germany and elsewhere, however, not from a regional or global point of view is justifiable, this minimal adjustment should ideally be a matter of course for every garden and nature lover be. By the way, you can also make compost yourself. This is still common in some nurseries and secret mixes are jealously guarded here. In the special article you will find some suggestions for your own mixtures and detailed information about possible additives. Of course, you will also find suggestions for peat-free soils there, which can also be found in hardware stores or garden centers. Our organic soils too - such as the Plantura organic potting soil - are peat-free or reduced peat.

The use of compost depends on what you ultimately want to achieve with the application. You can only fertilize beds, lawns or wooded areas with nutrient-rich organic / ready-made compost or organic / fresh compost. For this purpose, a thin layer 0.5 to 1 cm thick is distributed over the entire surface and only worked in flat. However, if your goal is to improve a barren piece of soil, we recommend using green waste / ripe compost and reading this special article, which deals with the Humus economy deals.

Compost toilet

At this point we present you with a few summarizing remarks on the subject Compost toilet –For more details, see the full special article here.

The compost toilet, also known as a dry toilet (TC), is associated with more than a few people with the wearing of jute clothing and the ecological movement. Very few people know that the compost toilet is by no means a modern development of the outhouse, but that its use was already common before the water closet (toilet). In fact, the story could have turned out very differently and the toilet could have disappeared into the oblivion of history. At least from an ecological point of view, this might have been better: through the luxury of the fast Flushing with water creates an incredible amount of extra work and makes ours dirty that is difficult to clean up Water cycle. The use of the compost toilet, on the other hand, leaves the nutrient and water cycle separate and thus not only protects the water. After sufficiently long composting or pasteurization - i.e. heating - results from our legacies of hygienic compost that can safely be returned to food production would be usable.

Compost toilets are available in various designs and for every purpose. What they all have in common is the use of so-called structural material, which binds liquid and promotes later composting. It also reliably prevents odors. Bark mulch, wood chips or wood ash, for example, are suitable as structural material. Basically, the excrement is first collected and then composted. This means that sooner or later the collecting container will have to be emptied. Depending on the system, the content has already turned into compost or not.

• The simple "collective toilet" collects solid and liquid together. It has to be emptied frequently, otherwise the user will sooner or later be annoyed by unpleasant smells. Modifications to the collective toilet enable the liquid to be separated off, so that odors are greatly reduced. In this way, the volume is also reduced enormously, so that the interval between emptying is significantly increased.
• A slightly different type is the so-called dry separation toilet (TTC). With this variant, liquids and solids never end up in a container together, which is made possible by the special construction of the toilet seat.
• Transitional forms between WC and TC are also possible and modern compost toilets do not have to look like the throne of an alien Alien-Königs: Not only the self-construction of a perfectly inserted compost toilet from kits is possible, there are even specialized companies in this Area.

Apart from the fact that the use of a composting toilet is of course ecologically very sensible, it saves money. And installation is also possible at locations that are not connected to the sewer network. This can be the case in remote, water-based or very stony locations. The laying of sewer pipes is impractical here. It is therefore hardly surprising that the compost toilet is quite common in some regions of Sweden.

By the way, the compost toilet - because it is as mobile as a toilet can be - can also be rented. For larger or smaller events, you can choose the environmentally friendly option instead of the famous Dixie toilet. Some of these rental toilets meet the highest standards and are so ingeniously built that the User hardly notices that during his relief he has done something better than the environment burden.

Mix the compost yourself

You can buy compost potting soil or make it yourself. Especially if you have the opportunity to produce compost yourself, you should consider making your own potting soil. You can adapt these individually to the needs of different plants. The production of your own compost soil also has other advantages, such as the low price, the environmental compatibility and the certainty that it contains ingredients. However, your own composting naturally costs some time and effort and the procurement of the additional additives is then up to you. In the course of composting, first fresh compost, then finished compost and finally mature compost are produced. All of these forms of compost can be used to mix the compost, but not all are suitable for every purpose. Before mixing, the compost should be heat sterilized to kill pathogens and weed seeds, which are very annoying, especially in flower pots around the house. How this works and which mixtures are suitable for summer flowers, herbs and woody plants in beds or tubs, for cuttings or for sowing, we will tell you in this special article on the topic "Mix compost yourself" before.

Buy compost

In addition to the summary, which you will find below, we have the complete special article on the topic for you here Buy compost prepared.

Compost is a kind of man-made humus - and you can not only make it yourself, but also buy it. This is particularly useful if you are going to planting, improving the soil or fertilizing quickly Compost needs and can't wait a whole year for your own compost to be ready is. Compost can be purchased from hardware stores and garden centers in the form of the composts mentioned above. The small volumes and the relatively high price make this variant impractical if you need a little more compost. The cheapest option is therefore to go to a local recycling center, where compost is constantly being made from the contents of the organic bins and the green waste from the maintenance of green spaces. The materials are often mixed, but in some places nutrient-rich organic compost and nutrient-poor green compost are also offered separately. Another possibility is the private way: Perhaps you know a gardener whose compost production exceeds his own needs, so that he cedes some of the black gold to you?

Of course, peat is also partly humus. However, in addition to this “swamp humus”, peat also contains large amounts of undecomposed material. Peat is comparatively cheap and can be used to improve the soil structure if you adjust its pH value with lime. The undecomposed material then turns into humus over time. However, since the use of peat poses many environmental problems - even the impending climate change - one should avoid the use of peat as much as possible, or at least to a large extent restrict.