Table of Contents
- Reasons for pruning
- Cut tolerance
- manual
- time
- Cutting tool
- frequently asked Questions
In order to let the hibiscus shine in full bloom again after a radical pruning, a few tips must be observed when carrying out the process. Detailed instructions with notes therefore follow below.
In a nutshell
- Radical pruning makes sense for both healthy and diseased plants
- Can be split over several years in order to reduce stress
- Correct cutting technique facilitates wound healing and reduces the risk of infection
- ideally to be carried out in early spring
- use clean and sharp tools for trimming
Reasons for pruning
The range of possible reasons for the radical To cut of the hibiscus are diverse. The most common reasons in practice are:
- poor growth in height and width of the plant
- uneven growth
- severe baldness indoors
- low bud and flower formation
- Disease or Pest infestation
Notice: Since the hibiscus develops its flowers exclusively on the new shoots, the balding from the inside out is a natural process that can be remedied with the help of radical cutting.
Cut tolerance
In general, the hibiscus is classified as a crop that is compatible with pruning, so that even radical pruning of healthy plants can be easily tolerated. In particular, sick or already weakened bushes usually acknowledge the radical cut by entering into it. For these specimens in particular, it is therefore advisable to split the radical cutting over several points in time. Here, the plant is only pruned selectively every year in order to keep the load lower.
Note: Extensive pruning means a high level of stress even for pruning-compatible plants. Subsequently, it is therefore necessary to give the hibiscus the best possible and species-appropriate care for.
manual
- if necessary: create a template for a compact and even shape
- cut especially thin twigs directly from the trunk
- Also cut away dead and diseased branches from the trunk
- Shorten individual shoots by up to two thirds of their length
- Overlaps or Avoid crossing branches
- Also cut the main trunk back in height
Tip: To prevent the build-up of moisture and pathogens, the cut surface should be cut down at an angle.
time
The ideal time for the pruning of the hibiscus is the early spring before the new shoots. The growth phase usually begins between mid-February and mid-March, so the work should be completed by then. However, the chosen date should already be outside of the Frost period in order to avoid frost damage at the interfaces. For optimal wound healing, the other weather conditions should be as follows:
- no direct sunlight
- Avoid rainy days as well
- as calm as possible
In principle, it is also possible to cut back the hibiscus in autumn. However, this is not recommended due to the slowed wound healing and the increased risk of infection.
Note: Please also note the applicable regulations of the Federal Nature Conservation Act, which require a radical cut back between the 1st March and the 30th Prohibit September of each year to protect nesting and breeding animals.
Cutting tool
Choosing the right cutting tool is essential for a straight cut and fast wound healing of the hibiscus interface. Regardless of the tool itself, it is therefore necessary that this is done before starting work sharpened and also cleaned or is sterilized. Fungal spores, in particular, are transferred from one plant to the next with the help of contaminated blades. Best practices for disinfecting are:
- flaming by fire
- soak in a mixture of water and alcohol (ratio 1: 7)
- use of a chemical disinfectant
Depending on the thickness of the individual branches, secateurs or loppers may be necessary. Electronic cutting tools should be avoided if possible. Due to the constant movement of the blade, the wound areas fray significantly more, which leads to more difficult wound healing.
frequently asked Questions
Despite the selection of the right pruning tool and the ideal time for pruning, it may still be necessary to additionally support the wound healing of the plant. For this purpose, the application of charcoal powder, ground cinnamon and zinc have proven themselves in practice. On the one hand, these disinfect the wound site and, on the other hand, they put a thin protective film over the capillary.
In order to select the right branches for pruning, it is necessary to recognize which of them have already died. To do this, it is necessary to lightly scrape off the upper layer of bark with a knife. If the underlying layer is a lush green color, the shoot is still active. However, if the color is brown or gray, the branch has already died and can be cut back at the base of the trunk.
In the absence of prunings, with otherwise good care and an appropriate location, the plant will expand both in height and in width. However, due to the formation of the flowers on the annual wood, the balding of the perennial inner branches continues to increase. In connection with uneven growth, the visual appearance is rather unattractive. The increasingly longer branches also lead to an increased risk of breaks and injuries to the bush and an increased susceptibility to diseases and pests.