Is gorse hardy?

Gorse, from the legume family, is particularly popular because of the shape of its flowers and their variety of colors. It is very robust and easy to care for, blooms beautifully and hardly requires any work. In addition to the real gorse (Genista), 'false' species of other genera (goat clover, Ulex, Spartium)) under the common name 'Gorse' ', which is only very distant from the real gorse are related. Accordingly, the question arises of how hardy gorse is.

How hardy is gorse?

The real gorse (Genista) includes numerous wild forms as well as a large number of attractive cultivated forms. They are all very tolerant of frost. The other so-called 'fake' gorse species are usually only partially hardy. In addition to broom (Cytisus scoparius) and gorse (Ulex europaeus), they also include rush or Spanish gorse (Spartium junceum) and thorn gorse (Calicotome spinosa). The respective winter hardiness or Cold tolerance depends on the origin. Accordingly, 'fake' gorse species originally from the Mediterranean area are much more sensitive to cold than those of northern origin.

tip: Both the species of the real gorse and the 'false' species are considered strong poisonous, even if they differ from one another in the composition of the ingredients. The concentration of toxins is also different.

Frost protection for real gorse

The distribution area of ​​the real gorse (Genista) extends from Poland to Scandinavia. So it is not surprising that varieties of this genus are completely hardy and usually survive the domestic winters without any problems. As a rule, older, planted specimens in particular do not need any special winter protection. Only young or freshly planted ones should be provided with winter protection in the form of a light cover made of leaves or fir branches.

Protect 'loggerhead' species from frost

Broom

As already mentioned, not all types of gorse have the same winter hardiness. Common broom (Cytisus scoparius), which, like the many-flowered and ivory gorse, belongs to the genus billy clover, comes from the Mediterranean region and is therefore only partially hardy. Nevertheless, it is in the winter hardiness zone 6b, which means that with appropriate protection it is winter hardy down to -20.5 ° C. However, in the event of prolonged, heavy frosts, particularly young plants may freeze back. After removing the frozen shoot parts in spring, the plant usually sprouts again without any problems.

Rush broom

• Spartium junceum
• Also known as the awl broom
• More sensitive to moisture and cold
• Not completely hardy in Germany
• Moves in hardiness zone Z8
• Tolerates temperatures from -6.7 ° C to -12.3 ° C
• It is best to only plant outdoors in mild locations
• To protect against frost with leaves or Cover sticks
• In rough locations with severe winters, keep it in the bucket if possible
• Light and cool resp. overwinter frost-free

Gorse

The winter hardiness of the gorse (Ulex europaeus) is also limited. Usually it can withstand temperatures down to -15 ° C. Nevertheless, in the case of severe frosts or Winter protection is recommended in winter hardiness zones 6-9. Gorse should be protected from frosts in particular. A cover with dry leaves is also suitable for this, which optimally protects the shoots at the base. Additional covering with brushwood can be useful. It may well happen that one or the other young shoot freezes to death in winter, especially if the plant was cut back radically too late in the year, for example in late autumn. Exactly these shoots can then be removed near the ground in spring.

tip: Gorse in particular has a peculiarity. Its green branches contain oils that can easily ignite in the hot summer months.

Thorny gorse

With its wonderfully fragrant, yellow flowers, the deciduous, thorny branched thorn gorse (Calicotome) belongs to a small genus with only three species. In winter-mild regions of the winter hardiness zone Z8, with temperatures from -6.7 ° C to -12.3 ° C, this species gets through the cold season well with winter protection from leaves or brushwood. In colder locations, it is best to keep them in a bucket and to keep them bright and cool over the winter. This can be done both indoors and, with appropriate protection, outdoors.

Winter protection for specimens in the bucket

• Generally protect young plants and specimens in the tub from frost
• Above all, the roots need protection
• Can freeze to death quickly without winter protection
• Winter particularly sensitive plants frost-free
• Ideally at temperatures between five and ten degrees
• Wintering of less sensitive specimens, with protection also outdoors
• First place the bucket away from the ground in a sheltered place
• Preferably in front of a warm house wall
• Additionally wrap with fleece or other insulating material
• Do not allow the substrate to dry out completely, even in winter

tip: In contrast to plants in the bed, those in the tub can easily be cut in late autumn. Then they should overwinter frost-free.