Planting, tending, pruning and more

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The reputation precedes her that she is delicate in the care. In fact, the camellia is by no means capricious as long as significant aspects of its cultivation are taken to heart. The following answers to basic questions provide an overview of what these are.

Plant camellia properly

As the ideal camellia Camellia japonica has proven itself for the garden. From the age of 4 years, this species has established itself so well that it can withstand the hardships of a winter and withstand temperatures of down to -15 degrees Celsius in a sheltered location. The best time to plant an outdoor camellia is in April. In these steps, the planting succeeds across the board:

  • Dig a planting pit with twice the volume of the root ball
  • Create a drainage system made of inorganic, lime-free materials at the bottom of the pit
  • Mix the excavation with rhododendron soil, compost and a little sand
  • Fill in the substrate to put the potted Camellia japonica in it

The soil mark on the camellia indicates the ideal planting depth. Spread a protective layer of mulch before watering. A mixture of leaves, straw and compost is perfect for this purpose. Unless you have several

camellias plant next to each other, consider an expected growth width of up to 180 centimeters when measuring the planting distance.
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care tips

Key positions in the professional care of a Camellia japonica are an adequate water supply and a balanced nutrient balance. That's what matters:

  • Never let a camellia dry out
  • If the substrate dries, it is poured with lime-free water
  • Spray regularly with lukewarm rainwater during the growth phase from May to July
  • Weekly from late May to mid-July fertilize With rhododendron fertilizer in half concentration
  • Regularly cleaning out faded flowers will encourage more blooms

To encourage profuse branching, prune a young Camellia japonica back a little immediately after flowering. The incision starts about 2 cm above a bud so that it does not dry out. If an older specimen develops a sparse appearance, bring the ornamental tree back into shape with a pruning.

Which location is suitable?

A prudent choice of location sets the course for the successful cultivation of a Camellia japonica. The greatest danger to flowering trees comes from late frosts. Therefore, both camellias in the pot and in the bed should be placed above all in a protected place, for example on a wall or pergola. These site conditions offer ideal conditions for lavish flowering and vigorous growth:

  • Half-shady light conditions with sunshine in the afternoon
  • Protected from strong winds and driving rain
  • Nutrient-rich, humus-rich, well-drained soil
  • A slightly acidic pH of 5 to 5.5

A cold period is required for a Camellia japonica to flower. Anyone who means too well and places the camellia in a warm living room or intensively heated conservatory will look in vain for a blossom. With constant temperatures between 6 and 10 degrees, the buds unfold for a flowering period of up to 6 weeks.
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When is flowering time?

Camellia japonica blooms from February/March to April/May. In a mild winter, this camellia species delights us with its magnificent blossoms from January. If the cultivation conditions meet your expectations, the Japanese camellia will bloom non-stop for up to 6 weeks.
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Water camellia

Proper watering of a camellia requires a little finesse. On the one hand, the root ball should be constantly moist, on the other hand, waterlogging proves to be absolutely deadly. In addition, the conditions at the site determine the water requirements. A Camellia japonica placed in a sunny location will evaporate a greater amount of moisture than a camellia placed in a shady, cool location. How to pour professionally:

  • Water plentifully and penetratingly from spring to autumn
  • If the thumb test shows a dry substrate surface, it is watered
  • Use collected rainwater, pond water or decalcified tap water
  • Spray with lukewarm water every few days during the growing months of May to July
  • It is better to water intensively once a week instead of a little every day
  • Empty a bucket coaster after 20-30 minutes at the latest

In winter, the water requirement is reduced without coming to a complete standstill. At this time of the year, it is essential to avoid completely drying out the root ball. This premise applies equally to Camellia japonica in beds and tubs. If the winter time comes with frost, when there is no snow in crisp minus temperatures, water your camellias on a frost-free day.
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Diseases

The camellia got its reputation as the sensitive flower diva because it sometimes sheds its flowers. However, this damage is due to neglect in care. In fact, Camellia japonica in particular has proven to be robust and resilient. If there are health problems, the camellia plague is usually behind it. This is the fungal infection Ciborinia camelliae, which can be recognized by the following symptoms:

  • The sticky fungal spores only affect the flowers
  • Where the mycelium takes root, it germinates extremely quickly, the flower turns brown and falls off
  • On the foliage or shoots, the fungi die without causing damage

An effective control agent has not yet been discovered. At the first signs of infection, the affected petals are cut off and disposed of in the household waste. In no case do they migrate spores on the compost because they spread further from here.

repot

The slow pace of growth of a camellia only requires a change to a larger pot every 2 to 3 years. Only when the roots push through the substrate is it repotted. The best time to do this is right after flowering in spring. How to do it right:

  • The new pot is a maximum of 5-6 centimeters larger in diameter
  • Lay out a drainage made of potsherds or expanded clay over the water drain in the ground (no calcareous gravel)
  • Fill in fresh moor bed soil halfway up the pot
  • Now pot the Camellia japonica and place it in the middle of the new pot
  • Plant exactly as deep as it was in the planter and water

We recommend placing an air- and water-permeable fleece between the drainage and the substrate. This prevents crumbs of earth from clogging the material. If you prefer your own mixtures as potting soil, the following recipe has proven itself: one third each of garden soil, peat and compost, enriched with a little sand for good permeability.
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Are camellias hardy?

To what extent a camellia is hardy is a matter of controversy among experts. The fact is that the species Camellia japonica in particular can survive a winter in the open air with good care and appropriate precautions. In regions with mild winters or in a sheltered, semi-shady to shady location, a camellia proves to be hardy with the help of these protective measures:

  • Cover with a layer of leaves, straw, bark mulch and compost at least 20 cm thick
  • A tent-shaped windbreak made of reed mats or coniferous branches padded with foliage
  • A cover made of jute or garden fleece
  • Wrap a bucket thickly in bubble wrap and place on wood or styrofoam

It's not the cold that causes winter damage to a Camellia japonica. Instead, the ornamental tree should be protected from the blazing morning sun in winter, as it causes considerable damage to the buds that have already formed and the lush green foliage dries up.
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