Apricot tree, Prunus armeniaca: Care of the apricot from A-Z

The apricot is still considered exotic, but it is also being cultivated more and more frequently in local regions. And rightly so, because the apricot tree not only adorns the gardens at home with its bright pink flowers, but also bears a multitude of tasty fruits when properly cared for.

Characteristics

• botanical name: Prunus armeniaca
• Synonyms: apricot, apricot, malete
• Genus: Prunus
• Family: Rosaceae
• Age: 10-25 years
• Height: 2 - 6 m
• Leaves: green, 5 - 10 cm long, 3 - 7 cm wide, broadly ovate to rounded oval
• Flower: diameter approx. 2.5 cm, pale pink to white
• Flowering period: March to April / May
• Harvest time: from mid-July

Location

The Prunus armeniaca originally comes from Central Asia and is accordingly in need of warmth. He also feels at home in local regions, provided that the location conditions are ideal. Above all, it is important that the future location is checked for suitability for wintering before planting. A protected place in front of a sunny house wall or under a canopy is ideal for the apricot tree. In addition, the location should meet the following requirements:

• warm and bright
• many hours of sunshine
• protected from rain and wind
• enough space
• about 8 m² for free-standing plants

Substrate

Not only the location itself, but also the substrate should be checked in advance and improved if necessary. Extremely loamy or clayey soils can easily be loosened with sand or other loose substances. This measure is important because the apricot tree does not tolerate waterlogging. In general, however, it can be said that apricot trees thrive in soils that are characterized by the following properties:

• light and sandy
• permeable
• profound
• well hydrated
• neutral pH of 7

Note: Special potted plant soil with perlites or granules is recommended for cultivation in pots. Alternatively, ordinary garden soil can be enriched with compost and horn shavings and used.

Culture in the bucket

For permanent cultivation in pots, varieties that reach a maximum height of 220 centimeters and a width of 40 to 60 centimeters are particularly suitable. The vessel must be correspondingly large, with a capacity of at least 30 liters being recommended. It should also have a drainage hole to prevent waterlogging. Planting in the tub is easy and works as follows:

• Create drainage from gravel and pottery shards
• Spread substrate over drainage
• Insert the apricot tree in the middle
• Gradually fill the pot with substrate
• Press the earth repeatedly with your fingers
• Insert support
• then water well

Note: The culture in the bucket brings the decisive advantage of the individual change of location. Because an apricot tree cultivated in a pot can be moved quickly and easily to frost-free winter quarters in the cold winter months.

Repot

With professional care and the optimal location conditions, the apricot proves to be very vigorous. The apricot tree can quickly expand because it grows both in height and in width. Accordingly, the roots should also have the opportunity to spread and continue to grow. For this it is advisable to repot the apricot in a larger container.

Planting

The Prunus armeniaca is best planted in spring, preferably in March. In colder regions, however, you should wait until April before planting. In the first step, the planting hole is dug out, which should be about twice as large as the root ball. The earth is now loosened up and drainage is created. The excavation can be enriched with compost and horn shavings so that the apricot tree is directly supplied with sufficient nutrients. In the next step, the apricot can be used as follows:

• Take the apricot tree out of the container
• Pull the root ball apart slightly
• Remove breaks and kinks
• Shorten shoots by 1/3
• Put the apricot tree in a bucket with water
• The root ball should soak up
• Now put the apricot in the middle
• The refining point should be above future ground level
• stand no lower than in the nursery!
• Press the earth down well
• pour abundantly
• Cover with black foil or mulch with garden compost

rain protection

Apricot trees come from a region where dry warmth is interrupted by occasional rainfall. Accordingly, the plants react sensitively to prolonged periods of rain. In this case, the roots may begin to rot and the flowers and fruits may suffer from the increased water supply. While potted plants can be easily moved during rainy periods, separate rain protection is recommended for trees cultivated outdoors:

• Projection under the house roof
• Terrace covering

Fertilize

The Prunus armeniaca is considered to be relatively undemanding and only needs little fertilization. Basically, it would be sufficient to apply extensive organic fertilization. For this purpose, garden compost is scattered in the root area, about three liters per square meter being sufficient. Alternatively, the apricot can be fertilized as follows during the growing season:

• once a month
• Fertilize a little more during flowering and just before harvest
• Use fertilizer for fruit trees
• The apricot does not tolerate mineral fertilizers so well

Note: If the apricot is overfertilized, the shoots usually do not mature properly by winter.

to water

Watering the apricot requires a certain tact, because the apricot tree does not want to be watered too much or too little. Too well-intentioned irrigation could lead to rotten roots, whereas a lack of water encourages dried-up leaves. Extremely long periods of drought can also inhibit the growth of the fruit and thus significantly impair the harvest. In order to ensure an adequate water supply, the following should therefore be used:

• Finger test before pouring
• the top layer of soil should always dry out
• best to water with rainwater
• Keep the root ball moist, but not too wet
• Water more often in hot summer months
• but never too much!
• Always avoid waterlogging

Cut

The regular pruning ensures that the tree does not become too spreading and that the roots are still able to adequately supply the tall branches. In general, the stronger the tree grows, the more it has to be pruned. The apricot is best cut in the growing season, immediately after harvest or before the flowering period.

• Thin out branches that are growing too densely
• this clears the tree crown and allows sun rays to penetrate
• Shorten shoots that are too long significantly
• Cut off dead and diseased branches
• seal very large wounds with tree sap
• Prune complex to promote even tree growth
• Make the cuts straight and clean
• use a sharp cutting tool

Note: Cutting in winter is possible, but not recommended. This is because at this time the wound sites close much more difficultly, so that pathogens can more easily penetrate them.

Overwinter

The warmth-loving apricot is generally hardy and can usually survive the regional winter months well. However, it can only tolerate persistent snowfalls and cold precipitation to a limited extent. It is therefore advisable to protect the apricot from frost with a fleece, especially in March and April. An apricot tree cultivated in a pot should be moved to frost-free winter quarters in good time:

• frost-free winter garden or light-flooded attic
• As bright as possible, set up plant lamps if necessary
• Avoid drafts
• only pour now and then

Multiplication

Apricot trees can be propagated in different ways, with propagation by cuttings or inoculating has proven itself. Of course, one of the Prunus armeniaca can also be pulled from a core, but this requires a lot of patience. Because it can take up to a year for the sprout to break out of the core.

By inoculating

Propagation by inoculating requires a bit of tact, but it is also a very inexpensive variant of reproduction. Because you only need a bud from an apricot tree that has already been grafted. Propagation by inoculating is also much faster than growing from a nucleus and takes about six weeks.

• Cut off shoot with bud
• Cut a 2-3 cm long, vertical cut into bark
• 2. Make the cut, horizontal and about 2 cm wide
• Form pockets by detaching both beef shells from the wood
• Do not insert the knife too deep
• Push eyes between the bark wings
• should now be stuck
• Tuck in pieces of bark around the eye
• Wrap with finishing tape

With apricot kernel

An apricot tree can also be grown from a core, provided the hobby gardener has a lot of patience. Because it can take up to a year for the offspring to break through the core. It should not be forgotten that the growing young tree cannot be planted directly in the garden and therefore more time must be planned.

• Use nutrient-rich, aseptic substrate
• it is best to use well-drained, sandy soil
• Select a container with a drainage hole
• Fill the soil in the container
• 1 core per pot
• First remove the pulp from the core
• Insert the core about 1 cm deep and sideways into the substrate
• Moisten well, but not too wet
• do not fertilize!
• Place the container in a light, warm place

Note: As soon as the sprout has reached a height of a few centimeters, it can be repotted in a larger container. Fertilization should also be avoided in the first few months.

By cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is probably the easiest and fastest way to reproduce. Several cuttings are required for this, which are simply taken from the tree top. When choosing the cuttings, make sure that they are as strong as possible and have a length of about 20 centimeters.

• Fill the pot with potting soil
• Put cuttings in the pot
• Place the pot in a light, warm location
• irrigate extensively

Note: As soon as the cutting has reached a height of around 80 centimeters, it can be used again in the field.

harvest

The first ripe fruits can be harvested in summer. This means that the fruits are picked one by one and never the whole tree is harvested at the same time. It is therefore advisable to regularly check the Prunus armeniaca for ripe fruits during the harvest time. Whether the fruits are ripe can be recognized by different characteristics:

• reddish cheeks form on the sunny side
• the shadow side is also colored yellow
• Fruits give in to gentle pressure
• The flesh is dark yellow, soft and juicy

Note: The harvested fruits can be processed into puree or jam or dried. You can also freeze or boil the apricots.

Pests and diseases

Pests and diseases can usually be traced back to mistakes in care, with too well-intentioned irrigation being the main cause. The apricot is often attacked by pests such as the frost wrench, a butterfly whose caterpillars eats the leaves and fruits. However, infestation can be prevented by placing chest boxes for birds near the tree. This attracts and encourages the natural enemy of the frost moth, namely the great tit, to nestle here. In addition to pests, the apricot is also often affected by the following diseases:

Frizziness

• Symptoms: young leaves change color, blistering, leaves and fruits die off
• Control: copper-containing spray, remove affected areas

Shotgun Disease

• Symptoms: initially round leaf spots, turn into holes
• Control: Fungicides, best to apply in damp weather

Bacterial burn

• Symptoms: small brown spots on the leaf margin, leaves die off
• Control: not possible, the fungus dies by itself