Instructions: Cut raspberries properly

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Table of contents

  • Cut summer raspberries
  • If necessary, trim in March
  • Plant pruning for summer raspberries
  • Cut autumn raspberries
  • Pruning for a second harvest
  • Regular pruning protects against diseases
  • Beware of offshoots of autumn raspberries!
  • The right framework for raspberries
  • Specialty Two-Timer Raspberry
  • Conclusion

In order to blend raspberries correctly, you first have to know whether they are summer or autumn raspberries, because all cutting measures are based on that. While summer raspberries only bear fruit in summer, autumn raspberries can be harvested from the end of summer until the first frost. Both also differ in that summer varieties only bear fruit on two-year-old wood and only these can be cut off after harvest. Autumn raspberries, on the other hand, form fruit on one-year-old wood, so that they can be completely cut back in autumn immediately after harvest.

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Cut summer raspberries

As already mentioned, summer varieties bear biennial wood, around June/July. Immediately after harvest, those canes that have borne fruit are cut off near the ground and carefully pulled out of the trellis if they are attached to a trellis. About 8-12 this year's green and vital young canes are left per meter. You can see these u. a. also on new leaf buds, while biennial shoots have dark brown stems that usually appear dry and wilted. If too many rods are left standing, this can promote the spread of fungal diseases because there is then insufficient ventilation between the individual shoots. The remaining rods can be shortened to approx. two meters in and fastens it to the scaffolding.

Tip:

Fastening to a suitable scaffolding, e.g. B. a so-called V-structure, has the advantage that it is easier to distinguish and separate the one-year and two-year-old rods.

If necessary, trim in March

Raspberries occasionally have to be trimmed again in March of the following year. The stubs of shortened rods from the previous year that are sticking out of the ground should be cut off directly above the ground. Diseased and weak young shoots that are no longer producing fruit should also be removed in early spring. This allows the plant to invest more energy in the main shoots, making them stronger and growing faster. If diseased shoots are not removed, they can transmit possible diseases to other shoots.

Plant pruning for summer raspberries

A so-called plant cut is recommended for summer raspberries. With this cut, a rod is shortened to 20 or 30 cm. If a second or third rod is available, these are cut off close to the ground. This cut is used to expel or remove the base eyes, which are still underground. stimulate growth.

Cut autumn raspberries

Autumn raspberry varieties are varieties that bear fruit on both the one-year-old wood and the new canes and grow less tall than summer raspberries. They are referred to as reblooming raspberry varieties. Flowering begins in mid/late June and the berries can be harvested from August until partly into October. Just like the summer raspberry, autumn varieties are also blended after harvest, around November or late winter. The best time for pruning is between the end of February and the beginning of March. All drives or Tails clipped just above the ground. However, a second harvest in spring is then not necessary. The new shoots later develop from the base. After pruning autumn-bearing berry bushes, experts recommend leaving about two cut rods per linear meter on the bed. This has the advantage that useful insects such as e.g. B. Predatory mites or the red spider can settle, which then remove pests from the plants or plants in spring. keep the young shoots away. Sick rods should not be used and must be disposed of.

Pruning for a second harvest

  • If a second harvest is desired in spring, the blending must be done differently.
  • After the first frosts, the rods are not cut close to the ground as with a conventional cut.
  • One cuts only the upper part of the rods that were tipped with fruit.
  • The lower rods or Shoot parts are then left for a second harvest in early summer.
  • This harvest is usually much smaller and shorter.
  • It makes more sense to shorten 1-2 rods per plant and remove all others completely.
  • The remaining shortened canes will then produce some fruit in early summer.
  • Once these have been harvested, these rods should also be cut off immediately close to the ground.
  • However, canes that are left for the purpose of a second harvest are often a source of infection for diseases.

Tip:

Due to the fact that the raspberry plants are significantly weakened by a second harvest and are less productive, it is It makes sense to grow autumn and summer varieties and to plant them at appropriate distances from one another so that they are not overgrown later confuse with.

Regular pruning protects against diseases

A cut immediately after harvesting both summer and autumn varieties not only ensures high-yield subsequent harvests, but can also counteract pest infestation. Since raspberries are generally prone to all sorts of diseases, regular pruning measures should ensure that not too many canes remain or become infected. these are not too close together. Otherwise, this makes the raspberries particularly susceptible to the dreaded cane disease or root rot. Root rot often occurs on compacted soil and the resulting waterlogging. Obviously infested rods should be cut off immediately and disposed of or burned. To minimize susceptibility to root diseases, it can be helpful to plant the raspberries in a hill bed. Due to the fact that the fruit ripens quite late, autumn raspberries have the advantage that they are not very susceptible against the dreaded raspberry beetle, whose maggots are often found in the fruits of summer raspberries are found.

Tip:

Raspberries are sensitive to food competition. It is therefore advisable not to place them in the immediate vicinity of other plants. Weeds also represent competition and should be removed regularly.

bowl of raspberries

Beware of offshoots of autumn raspberries!

Among hobby gardeners it is quite normal to exchange plants, including offshoots of berry bushes. Even if this neighborly help is usually a good gesture, one should be careful It is better to avoid raspberries, because these offshoots are very often infected with fungi and viruses infested. That's why it's always better to get young and, above all, healthy young plants from the garden trade or a tree nursery.

The right framework for raspberries

Appropriate scaffolding is particularly recommended for summer raspberries. These raspberry canes can reach a height of between 200 and 220 cm and are extremely flexible, allowing them to hang down to the ground under the weight of the fruit. The canes of autumn raspberries, on the other hand, do not grow as high and do not necessarily need a framework. The individual canes of summer raspberries can be attached to an appropriate framework or trellis Shape so that sufficient light always reaches the fruit and the air in between can circulate well can. In addition, a scaffold allows the separation of annual and biennial rods, which facilitates annual trimming.

Specialty Two-Timer Raspberry

The so-called two-timer raspberry is a robust, well-branched and vigorous new breed with large, firm and sweet fruits that can be harvested twice. The two-year-old canes are harvested from the end of May/beginning of June, and the new ones in summer. Another advantage of this variety is its columnar growth, which makes it suitable for planting in a container. With the two-timer raspberry, you only cut off the two-year-old canes and this is best done in spring. In order to prevent too many rods from forming, excess shoots should also be removed regularly in addition to the normal pruning. Incidentally, a so-called knot grid is very suitable for this type of raspberry.

Conclusion

Raspberries are one of the most popular berries in the home garden. Which variety you ultimately choose depends on your personal taste and, if necessary, on your care needs. However, this is limited, whereby regular pruning is the most important care measure, because this is the only way to ensure a regular and lush harvest. When and how to cut back depends on whether it is a summer or autumn variety. Otherwise, it always makes sense to grow both types of summer and autumn raspberries. This allows harvesting from early summer to autumn without weakening the autumn varieties with a second harvest.

author garden editorial

I write about everything that interests me in my garden.

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