Are cyclamen hardy?

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In autumn, the perennials with their pretty flowers are available in stores everywhere, after all, the distinctive cyclamen flowers during the winter months and is therefore popular as a houseplant. However, the indoor cyclamen (bot. Cyclamen persicum) no frost and must therefore stay in the apartment. The situation is completely different with other, hardy species of the genus, which can be planted in the garden without any problems.

Hardy species

The majority of the around 22 different species of the cyclamen plant genus come from climatically mild to warm regions - especially from the Mediterranean, Turkey and Asia Minor - and are therefore not hardy. However, a few varieties defy the cold central European winter, which is why they are suitable for planting in the garden. You can choose between the following three types, which can withstand even very cold winters with temperatures as low as minus 40 ° C:

  • European or summer cyclamen (bot. C. purpurascens): flowers between July and August, then shoots again
  • Wintergreen early spring cyclamen (bot. C. coum): stays small, flowering time between February and March, planting in autumn
  • Ivy-leaved or autumn cyclamen (bot. C. hederifolium): Flowering period between August and October, leaves appear after flowering

In addition, varieties are occasionally available in the trade, which up to approx. are hardy to minus 10 to 20 degrees Celsius. These species can also be planted in the garden, but they definitely need winter protection. This group includes:

  • Anatolia cyclamen (bot. C. cilicon): from Turkey, blooming in autumn
  • Amana sea violet (bot. C. pseudibericum): from Turkey, flowering period April to May
  • Propeller cyclamen (bot. C. trochopteranthum): from southern Europe, flowering period February to March
  • Cyclamen mirabile: from Turkey, blooming in autumn
  • C. parviflorum: from Turkey, smallest species of the genus, autumn flowering
  • C. intaminatum: from Turkey, up to ten centimeters high, blooming in autumn

Note that these species can freeze to death in very cold and snowy winters. This applies in particular to the propeller cyclamen, which is only frost-resistant to minus 10 degrees Celsius. However, you can also care for the plants indoors at temperatures between 12 and a maximum of 18 degrees Celsius.

Not hardy species

All other cyclamen species do not tolerate any or only very little frost and are therefore not suitable for outdoor cultivation in winter. This is especially true of such popular varieties as these:

  • Cyclamen (bot. C. persicum)
  • Cyprus cyclamen (bot. C. persicum)
  • Greek cyclamen (bot. C. graecum)
  • Curly-leaved cyclamen (bot. C. repandum)
  • African cyclamen (bot. C. africanum)

and other. Such plants should only be grown in pots and must be kept indoors between September and May. Only in the summer months do you place the planters in a sheltered and partially shaded place outdoors.

Tip: Keep your eyes open when buying: just because the retailer advertises the plant as frost-resistant doesn't mean that it is true. Some resourceful sellers sell non-hardy cyclamen as suitable for wintering outdoors. The awakening follows quickly, however, for these plants

tolerate a maximum of minus five degrees Celsius - if at all - and freeze to death outside.

The best tips for wintering

Cyclamen - cyclamenRegardless of whether it is hardy or not: all types of cyclamen can be brought through the winter with a few tricks, so that you can enjoy the abundant flowering plants for a long time. After all, the cold season has some pitfalls that need to be mastered.

Hardy species

Even if the hardy varieties are more or less frost-resistant, depending on the species, they should still be protected from winter hardships.

Protected location

All cyclamen species need a light, but not directly sunny, place in the garden that is protected from the wind. It is best to place the tubers as underplanting under higher trees, where the plants will find the necessary protection.

Sink the tuber deep enough into the ground

Avoid placing the tubers too shallowly in the ground: in deep frost, they freeze easily. At a planting depth of between five to ten centimeters, the sensitive tuber is well protected from condensation and the cold.

Tip: If cyclamen are grown in pots, they always belong in the house - even if they are hardy species - for frost-free wintering. The reason for this is the small amount of soil in the planter, which freezes through very quickly in frosty conditions and therefore does not offer any protection to the tubers.

Winter protection with brushwood and leaves

Also protect the tubers from the cold with an approx. three to five centimeters thick protective layer made of:

  • Brushwood (spruce or fir branches)
  • compost
  • or autumn leaves

Only cover the floor area in which the underground plant organs are located. The flowers, in turn, do not need any protection. The three very hardy cyclamen species generally only need as young plants (i.e. H. protection during the first two to three years) and in very cold winters; the other varieties should always be covered.

Avoid excessive moisture

Place the tubers in a place where excess water - for example through rain or condensation - cannot accumulate. In heavier soils, ensure that there is effective drainage so that the water can run off. Otherwise, tuber rot can occur and the plants perish.

Tip: In case of doubt, actually hardy varieties can also be overwintered in the house. However, you should use these types

do not place in the heated living room, but rather place it in a cool and bright place - for example, the bedroom that is unheated in winter is ideal for many people.

Not hardy species

The wintering of the non-winter-hardy cyclamen species, on the other hand, is a little trickier. The following tips will help the plants to survive the cold season in a healthy way and without pest infestation.

Choose a bright location

Cyclamen - cyclamenFor cyclamen cultivated in the room, the same applies in terms of location as for garden cyclamen: the plants want to be bright, but not directly sunny. Staircases are usually very suitable, but also an (unheated) winter garden or your to the north Directional bedroom - provided that there is not another tree or building in front of the window to let the light take away.

Do not place too warm

The most important rule for wintering a cyclamen is this: Do not place the plant warmer than 12 to a maximum of 18 degrees Celsius! The flowers don't tolerate frost, but they don't like it too warm either. The window sill in the living room is therefore the wrong place; unheated or less heated rooms are better suited instead.

Water moderately, avoid waterlogging

The cyclamen also needs water in winter, after all, it is in its prime. You should therefore water it moderately but regularly - the soil in the pot should then feel slightly damp, but not wet. Excess water should be able to drain into a planter or saucer and be removed from there after 30 minutes at the latest. Always pour directly onto the ground or into the coaster - never from above!

Remove dead flowers

The flowering period and the formation of seeds cost the plant a lot of strength. So that it can collect enough nutrients and energy in its tubers for a new sprout by spring, you should remove any that has withered immediately. However, do not cut the shoots, but carefully pull them off.

Tip: As a typical winter bloomer, the popular indoor cyclamen (bot. Cyclamen persicum) flowers for a long time between September and April, but pauses during the summer months. You have to practically "summer" this species. This works best in a partially shaded, not too warm place in the garden or on the balcony. The plant can stay here until autumn, but must be brought in again in good time before the first frost.

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