The German's favorite fruit is the strawberry. It is as sweet as sugar and otherwise super delicious. So much the better that the cultivation is so uncomplicated, provided you pay attention to a few things.
Site conditions
Strawberries are real sun children. In order to be able to develop a lot of delicious fruits, they need a place that is protected from wind and rain and, above all, sunny. The location on the balcony should still be airy. The conditions are usually ideal on a south-facing or south-west facing balcony. But even in partially shaded locations you don't have to do without strawberries, because wild and monthly strawberries also thrive there.
Soil condition
When choosing the substrate, you should know that strawberries are one of the so-called heavy eaters. Consequently, the soil should be rich in nutrients. Normal standard soil is just as suitable as potting soil, perennial soil or potted plant soil. Aggregates such as perlite or expanded clay are very welcome. They store water and slowly release it to the plant. You should avoid bark mulch and, for the sake of the environment, also use peat.
The right planter
When choosing the right planter, it is important that it is large enough for the strawberry plants to develop well. The fine roots are mainly in the top 15 cm of the pot. Accordingly, for a single plant, it should have a depth of at least 15 cm and a diameter of 12-15 cm.
For several copies, square pots measuring 30 x 30 cm or flower boxes 60, 90 or 120 cm in length are suitable. Numerous variants are available in stores. There are constructions with several planting levels or so-called strawberry towers for hanging and climbing varieties.
Tip: If there is limited space on the balcony
Climbing and hanging strawberries.Best planting time
The right time to plant depends on the variety. The best time to plant is between mid / late July and mid August. More or more often vigorous varieties are planted from August to September. An exception are so-called frigo plants, which are cleared between November and February and stored at minus two degrees. They can be planted almost all year round, from March to September. It is not uncommon for them to consist only of rhizomes and roots, and after approx. fruits ripe for eight weeks.
Gaining young plants
Strawberry plants continuously form long runners with small offshoots that are perfect for planting. Offshoots that are not needed for reproduction should be cut off close to the mother plant as soon as they are discovered. If you do not do this, they rob the plant of a lot of strength, which in turn affects the formation of flowers and consequently also the fruits.
Tip: Those who do not have their own plants can purchase strong young plants from early spring in specialist gardeners, hardware stores or nurseries.
Planting instructions
For your own offshoots
- fill a small pot with good potting soil
- Select offshoots from a particularly high-yielding plant
- place on the ground in the pot
- do not separate from the mother plant yet
- fix it to the earth with a wire
- Only cut off the connection to the mother plant after the roots have formed
- put in good potting soil
- a plant takes up about 30 cm of space
- Apply organic strawberry fertilizer at the end of the season
Purchased young plants
- Fill planters with soil two weeks before planting
- Then water the soil
- Let set until planted
- if necessary, add half a teaspoon of strawberry fertilizer
- Water bare-rooted plants a few hours before planting
- then loosen the roots a little and plant them
- also briefly water potted specimens
- Plant spacing of around 25 cm is recommended
- Press the soil lightly, water
Tip: When planting, the root neck of the young plant should be flush with the ground so that the heart is exposed. If it sits too low, there is a risk of rot; if it is too high, the heart can dry out, which leads to total failure.
Subsequent care
- Water thoroughly immediately after planting
- Make sure there is an adequate water supply for the next two to three weeks
- Water regularly from flowering to fruiting
- the more often the smaller the planter is
- at best, always water in the morning
- Mold in the pot and on the leaves can be avoided
- Empty coasters and planters regularly
- Fertilize once-bearing varieties after the harvest in August
- several times in pregnancy in spring and autumn
- with compost, horse manure or special berry fertilizer
- Remove weeds regularly
- surplus runners or Cut off offshoots
Tip: If you combine different varieties, for example double and always bearing varieties, there is something to snack on all summer long.
Mulching in hot summers
In particularly hot and dry summers, it is advisable to mulch the earth around the strawberry plants with hay, straw or dried lawn clippings. On the one hand, the mulch keeps the moisture in the soil longer and, on the other hand, it protects the fruit from moisture and therefore also from rot. However, it is important to ensure that the layer is not too dense and that the plant is still well ventilated all around. Comfrey leaves are also very suitable for mulching. The potassium contained allows the fruits to ripen better, strengthens the cell tissue and makes the plants more resistant to diseases and pests.
Replace plants every three years
Strawberry plants usually bear best in their second year. After three years the yields drop sharply, the fruits get smaller from year to year. For this reason, it is advisable to replace them with fresh young plants every three years. Many replace them after the second year. Of course, the earth should also be renewed in the process.
Winter protection for balcony strawberries
Need in the garden
Strawberries do not have any winter protection. The situation is different with plants in pots, tubs or flower boxes. They should be cut back in late fall, when the strawberry season is coming to an end. Both leaves and runners are removed. The purpose of this measure is to prevent fungal infestation, as the leaves are susceptible to red and white spot disease. The heart of the plant should be preserved.
The pot or flower box is then placed in a sheltered place near the house on a wooden pallet or styrofoam plate. A covered area is ideal. To protect the root area from freezing through, the pot is also protected from the outside and below cold-insulating materials such as fleece or bubble wrap and additionally covers it with sticks and straw or mulch off.
Measures to increase yield
Since the space available on most balconies is rather limited, there is a lot that can be done to get the best possible out of the plants and to increase yields. And that without great effort.
- Regularly remove long, leafless runners
- unless needed for propagation
- In the first year, the flowers are deliberately maxed out
- all flowers in varieties bearing in June
- continue until the end of June if pruning is more frequent
- therefore harvest in autumn
- This strengthens plants
- The consequences are increased flowering and fruiting in the second year
- Yield increase also by repotting in fresh soil in spring
- or work compost into the top substrate layer
Varieties for the balcony
'Arabella'
- high-yielding and frost hardy variety
- very large, easy-to-pick fruits
- Long harvest season from June to October
'Toscana'
- Variety with large decorative pink flowers
- wonderfully aromatic, sweet fruits from May to October
- also carries on the foothills
'Cupid'
- convinces with an intense strawberry aroma
- very good fruiting bright red strawberry
- Continuous after-blooming, medium-sized fruits from May to September
'Viva Rosa'
- pink flowers, elongated, medium-sized fruits
- blooms and bears all summer
'Aroma Star'
- large bright red fruits
- robust variety with a wonderful wild strawberry aroma
- Harvest from June
'Climbing Tones'
- Climbing strawberry with deep red aromatic, juicy-sweet fruits
- Harvest from June to frost
- Climbing aid recommended