This is the best way to get Syringa through the cold

Real garden lavender is hardy

When it comes to winter hardiness, many garden owners are confused, as many prefer the robust common lilacs and the more sensitive ones Buddleia confound. Both species look quite similar, mainly because of the shape and color of their inflorescences, but they are not related to each other. In addition, the common lilac (Syringa vulgaris), which belongs to the olive family, is absolutely hardy - in contrast to the Buddleia (Buddleja davidii), which belongs to the figwort family and is a winter protection, especially at a young age needed. Therefore:

• The common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) is hardy and can withstand even deep frosts.
• Syringa rarely freezes back.
• The summer or Butterfly lilac (Buddleja davidii) is only partially hardy.
• Its shoots and branches often freeze back in winter, but it sprouts reliably from the roots.

What to do if the lilac does not sprout in spring

However, even with a spring lilac, it can happen to you that this after a long and severe winter no longer drives out. This is especially the case when

• the winter was very wet and the lilacs "drowned" in the constant moisture - waterlogging does not please the wood
• in a dry winter, extremely cold temperatures encounter bright sunshine

With the latter, frost damage is very likely, because the warming rays of the sun can damage the lilac, especially towards the end in winter stimulate budding and the extremely cold temperatures freeze back the twigs and branches that have flowed through with sap leaves.

Hibernate lilacs properly in the pot

Of course is too in buckets Cultivated lilacs are sufficiently hardy, but their roots, which are poorly protected by pots and little substrate, require additional protection. So that the roots do not freeze back, you should wrap the planter with warming fleece and also place it on an insulating surface such as wood or styrofoam.