Select and prepare cuttings
Hydrangea anomala ssp. petiolaris, like that Climbing hydrangea is designated in botanical Latin, can best be propagated via head cuttings. These are the shoot tips of an already lignified, this year's side shoot if possible. This should neither have flowered nor have flower buds, both of which simply rob the cutting too much of its strength. Select a side shoot about four to six inches long and cut it off just below one eye. All lower leaves should be removed so that the cutting does not evaporate too much moisture. The two to three top leaves can, however, remain.
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When are climbing hydrangeas best propagated?
The best time to Climbing hydrangeas to multiply are the summer months of July and August. This type of hydrangea flowers between June and July, so flowering is complete by the time the cuttings are cut. In addition, the young shoots had enough time to mature.
Planting and caring for the cuttings
The cut surface of the cuttings to be rooted should be kept as inclined as possible, as this makes it easier for the shoot to absorb water. Immersion in a Rooting powder also stimulates the formation of young roots. You can then plant the cuttings of the climbing hydrangea in a mixture of sand and peat, whereby a mixture ratio of 1: 1 has proven to be most effective. Place the pot with the young cuttings in a bright place away from direct sunlight and keep them evenly moist.
Young plants are still very sensitive to frost
The cuttings should do not overwinter outdoorsbecause they are still very sensitive and freeze there. It is best to overwinter them in a frost-free, but cool and light place. The young plants do not come until spring to their final locationas soon as late frosts are no longer to be expected. This can be expected from mid-May at the earliest. Fill the planting hole with a mixture of excavated material, ripe mixed compost and bog soil so that the young climbing hydrangeas have the best possible starting shot.
Tips & Tricks
If you take cuttings from leafy shoots, the moisture loss must be limited by the natural transpiration of the leaves: you should take cuttings in the Cold frame or under protective hoods (e.g. B. put on a mason jar), where a high level of humidity can build up.