Types of cuts and dates
Traditionally, gooseberries thrive as high-yielding Bushes. Balcony gardeners swear by space-saving cultivation as High trunk. In the small garden, red and green premium varieties bring as Column fruit refreshing crop yield. Perfect cut care takes the respective variant into account. The following table gives an overview of tried and tested Types of cuts and names recommended dates:
also read
- Cut a gooseberry high stem correctly - this is how it works
- Cleaning the gooseberries - this is how you do it right
- Freezing gooseberries properly - an icy extension of the season
| Cut type | Goal / occasion | best date | alternative date |
|---|---|---|---|
| Planting and training pruning shrub | clear structure, vital branching | Spring after autumn planting | on planting day |
| Conservation cut shrub | young, productive Fruitwood support financially | February to early March | after harvest |
| Rejuvenating pruning shrub | Revitalize exhausted gooseberries | Late winter | none |
| Topiary top trunk | Shaping the crown, maintaining profitability | February to early March | after harvest |
| Conservation cut column fruit | Maintain slim shape and earning power | February to early March | after harvest |
Gooseberry bush - instructions for planting and training pruning
Large, juicy fruits and a pain-free harvest are the reward for a targeted planting and training pruning. In order for your gooseberries to flourish flooded with light and clearly laid out, cut the berry bush as follows for the first two years:
- The best time is in February when the weather is frost-free and dry
- In the first year, cut back strong shoots by a third, weak shoots by half
- Cut just above an outward-facing bud
- In the second year the last year growth Shorten by a third or half
With 4 to 6 promising scaffold shoots, a gooseberry bush is well positioned. Cut excess ground shoots without long stubs away. Even if it is difficult, you should shorten the young shoots in the first and second year. This strengthens the stability so that they can carry the valuable fruit wood with lots of juicy gooseberries. In the following years you can expand the basic structure to 8 to 12 ground shootsif the space available in the bed allows it.
In the spring after planting, cut back all shoots by a third to two thirds. In the first few years, the perfect shrub structure consists of 4 to 6 ground shoots. Later, up to 12 scaffold drives are possible. Cut off excess ground shoots at the base.
Maintaining earning power on the gooseberry bush
In the third year of standing, the pruning of gooseberries flows from the upbringing to the conservation. If you take note of the following principle, nothing can go wrong: Old, dark brown wood must give way - young, light brown wood is encouraged. Shoots from the age of four are attributed to the old wood. How to complete the correct maintenance cut:
- The best time is in spring
- Cut out everything that grows inward and stands too close together
- Cut off the side shoots in the lower third of the main branches because no fruits will thrive here
- Do not intersect light brown, annual side shoots in the upper area
- Overhanging shoot tips slim down Derivative cut on a side shoot
As shown in the figure below, pruning combines maintenance and continuous rejuvenation. Every year, thin out two or three main dark brown branches at ground level. In return, you promote young, light brown wood that grows directly from the root disc. In order to strengthen the vigor of young main branches, cut a third of the previous year's growth over one next year eye away.
Replace a quarter of the old ground shoots with young shoots every year. On the remaining scaffold shoots, redirect drooping tips to a lower side shoot.
Digression
Perfectly equipped for scratchy berry bushes
Rejuvenate old berry bush
The taper cut aims to replace the old scaffolding with young ground shoots for a new build. Cut off all old, dark brown shoots at ground level. With a little luck, you will come across fresh wood that sprouts directly from the rootstock. Select the four to six most vital specimens.
An old scaffold shoot signals courage to live when it has young, light brown side shoots to offer. In this case, use the pruning shears at the fork between dark and light wood. If there are several side shoots to choose from, give an outward-facing, unbranched one Drive Priority.
A radical rejuvenation cut perks up exhausted gooseberries. Cut off old, dark brown shoots at ground level. Young shoots with light brown bark form the new framework. Outdated scaffold shoots with young side shoots in the lower area receive one Derivative cut.
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Complete rejuvenation pruning in winter
Cut high stems
The cut on the gooseberry stem follows similar basic rules as they apply to bushes. For a decorative and productive crown shape, the number of leading branches should be limited to four to six shoots that are no more than four years old. The following premises apply to a competent shape cut:
- The best time is in early spring
- Cut back hanging branches in half
- Thinning out steep shoots protruding from the crown shape as competition for the crown structure
- From the third year onwards, replace an old guide branch with a young, diagonally horizontal branch
Often cheeky wild shoots sprout from the trunk or the wild underlay. You should remove these immediately, regardless of the current season.
Tips
As high stems, gooseberries are reliant on a support rod for a lifetime. The wooden post should reach into the middle of the crown in order to guarantee sufficient stability.
Cut the gooseberry column
A good-natured cut tolerance recommends gooseberries for cultivation as Column fruit. Characteristic of the space-saving growth is a dominant central drive that you continuously tie onto the support post. How to properly cut a columnar gooseberry:
- The best time is in early spring from February to March
- Cut off ground shoots at the base to compete with the columnar trunk
- Cut back worn rods from the previous year to short cones
- Apply scissors just above the second or third eye
- Young shoots from the previous year do not intersect
In the course of the new season, young shoots sprout from the buds of the short cones, which bear fruit the following year. The long-awaited flowers appear on the light brown shoots of the previous year this spring, followed by refreshing gooseberries in summer.
frequently asked Questions
Are gooseberries self-fertile or should I plant two varieties?
Male and female flowers thrive on gooseberries at the same time. The transmission of pollen is done by the wind or hard-working insects. A single plant is therefore sufficient for a harvest of juicy gooseberries. However, it is advisable to socialize two different varieties in order to increase the harvest yield.
Should gooseberries be cut after planting?
A plant pruning is definitely advantageous for strong branching and the growth of numerous fruit canes. Select 4 to 6 promising shoots as the framework for the start. You can shorten strong rods by a third. Cut weak shoots by up to two thirds. Cut off all remaining ground shoots at the base. In view of the frost sensitivity of a young gooseberry, please do the planting only in the spring after planting.
Is it possible to keep it in a bucket? How big should the pot be?
Basically, bucket keeping for gooseberries is not a problem. The pot size depends on the growth habit. As a shrub, a volume of 7.5 to 10 liters is advisable at the beginning. Tall trunks and columnar fruit require a bucket with at least 15 to 20 liters in order to additionally guarantee stability. Please note that the water and nutrient reserves in the bucket are used up faster than in the bed.
The 3 most common mistakes
Meager berries, a dense network of canes and unstable ground shoots are the result of typical cutting errors. The following table draws attention to the three most common mistakes in pruning gooseberries and provides useful tips for professional prevention:
| Cutting errors | Damage image | prevention |
|---|---|---|
| never exposed | premature aging, little fruity | Thinning out old wood every spring |
| Excessively long scaffold drives are not diverted | Rods with fruits lie on the ground | Deflect too long, unstable scaffold drives |
| old ground shoots with long stumps cut off | Weak shoots emerge from the remaining cones | always clear out at floor level |
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Tips
If annual shoots on gooseberries are too close to the main shoot, they should be thinned out to a distance of 10 centimeters. The clippings are perfect for the Propagation of cuttings. Choose 8 to 12 inches long rods that you put in a pot of lean Potting soil put. Three to four eyes should be above the substrate. Poured regularly in the partially shaded location, the roots will not be long in coming.
