Hydrangea ∗ The 10 best care tips and varieties (Hydrangea)

origin

With Hydrangeas, botanically hydrangea, most people in this country probably associate them with Farm hydrangea. The genus, however, comprises an impressive number of around 70 to 80 different ones Species that also have a fairly extensive range of manifestations and areas of origin exhibit.

The distribution area of ​​hydrangeas is in the Far East as well as in North and South America. Most of the species come from temperate to warm habitats in East Asia from Myanmar to Japan and sometimes colonize altitudes of up to 3400 meters. As a rule, these are undergrowth plants - so they have adapted to partially shaded light conditions and like that in this country too.

In terms of climate, hydrangeas can be kept very well in Central Europe as a container plant. They usually need a lot of water - this characteristic is also anchored in their botanical name, which translates as "water jug".

Origin at a glance:

• A total of around 80 different types of hydrangea come mainly from East Asia, but also from North and South America
• Colonize temperate to warm habitats, some of them high up
• Mostly understory plants
• Can be cultivated well in the bucket in this country

growth

That trusted our gaze Garden hydrangea Like most hydrangea species, it grows as a woody subshrub with a spreading, bushy crown. It forms numerous basic shoots at the base, which branch widely upwards. The bark is light gray to brownish and covered with a felt coating. Depending on the type, the hair is different in intensity.

Some other hydrangea species also grow as climbing plants, as trees or even as lianas. In the local garden culture, the former variant in the form of climbinghydrangea relevant. It can climb many meters into the air with its adhesive roots, if a climbing aid is offered to them. If it is left to its own devices, its habitus remains bush-like and spherical in shape.

Growth characteristics in brief:

• Garden or farm hydrangeas show subshrub growth with a bushy appearance
• Many basic shoots, wide ramifications
• Fuzzy shoot hair
• Climbing hydrangea can reach great heights with climbing supports

size

The bushy shrub species of hydrangeas usually reach a manageable height of about one to two meters in a garden-friendly manner. They also expand roughly as far in width.

It is different with climbing hydrangeas: If you are provided with a wall with climbing aid, you can climb up to 15 meters on it.
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leaves

The leaves of hydrangeas are very large, which explains, among other things, their high water consumption. Their shape is usually ovate and tapering to a point with a broad leaf blade and an often serrated edge. The oak-leaf hydrangea shows, as its name suggests, an oak-like to maple-like lobed leaf contour and also an extremely magnificent, reddish autumn color. In the vast majority of species, the leaves are opposite.

Overall, both evergreen and deciduous species can be found within the genus.

Blade properties in brief:

• Mostly egg-shaped, pointed, broad leaf shape
• Often sawn edges
• Acorn hydrangea leaves lobed
• Both evergreen and deciduous species

blossoms

With their hemispherical, plus-terry shape, the lush flower clusters of the hydrangea are somewhat reminiscent of bathing caps. It is mainly because of them that the hydrangea species have become so popular for gardening and have been for a long time.

In their wild form, the doldigen, thyrsen-shaped and terminal inflorescences mostly consist of a center many, small, fertile flowers and a border of sterile show flowers that attract pollinator insects to serve. The fertile flowers to be pollinated are rather inconspicuous. That is why they are also converted into large, decorative show flowers in many cultivated forms - So the price of this plastic surgery is complete sterility of the whole Plant.

A relatively well-known curiosity of the flowers of some hydrangea species - such as the peasant or the Plate hydrangea - is their color depending on the pH value in the soil. Usually the sepals of the flowers are pale pink to pinkish red or purple in color. The lower the pH value of the plant base, the more the flower color is blue. This is because the plant can absorb more aluminum ions from an acidic soil environment.

If you have a particular preference for the blue flowers, you can specifically promote them by adding alum to the irrigation water. For one liter of water - preferably low-lime from the Rain barrel - give 3 g of alum.

Overview of flower properties:

• The large, hemispherical, golden tufts of flowers are highly decorative
• In the wild form, consisting of a center with many fertile but inconspicuous flowers and decorative, but sterile show flowers on the outside
• In many garden forms, re-breeding into inflorescences consisting purely of show flowers - plants then completely sterile
• With some species the color changes depending on the pH value in the soil: alkaline = pink, acidic = blue
• Blue color eligible with alum

When is the flowering time?

Most hydrangeas do not begin to develop their magnificent flowers until midsummer, usually in July. In garden centers, however, you can sometimes get propelled specimens.

Which location is suitable?

Since hydrangeas usually grow as undergrowth plants in their original habitat, most species like it more partially shaded here, too. However, some species can also be in a sunny position. As far as the soil is concerned, you should always provide a hydrangea with humus-rich, loose and freshly moist soil. Apart from the possible color induction of the flowers of some species, hydrangeas also prefer a slightly acidic soil environment in the pH range of around 5 to 6. They should also be protected from strong winds.

To note:

• Most species are partially shaded, and some are also sunny
• Soil nutrient-rich, loose and freshly moist
• pH value more in the slightly acidic range

the shade

Hydrangeas usually tolerate complete shade, it depends a little on the species. Especially the classic farmer hydrangeas, snowball hydrangeas or Climbing hydrangeas also thrive well in places with little sunshine and are not stingy when it comes to blooming. So you can add nice splashes of color even in dark corners of the garden. You generally won't go wrong with a location under trees. However, the combination with deep-rooted plants is more advantageous, so that the flowering shrubs do not interfere with them in terms of the planting ground.

The particularly shade-tolerant species:

• Farm hydrangeas
• Snowball hydrangeas
• Climbing hydrangeas

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Water hydrangea

Hydrangea, the botanical name of the hydrangea, means something like "water jug" in German - this naming alludes to the constant thirst of the plant. So pouring is a central issue for her. When it is warm and dry in summer, it immediately indicates an acute need for water by hanging leaves and literally calls you to the watering can. The base of hydrangeas should always be kept moist.

It is best to use soft, lime-free water for watering, ideally from a rain barrel.

An overview of the pouring rules:

• Hydrangeas need a lot of water
• Careful, even watering is essential
• Low-lime water, preferably rainwater

Fertilize hydrangea properly

Hydrangeas are not only thirsty, but also hungry - they are undoubtedly one of the strong eaters. Apart from the fact that you should pay attention to the nutrient-rich, humus-rich soil when planting, an additional fertilizer is very useful for good growth. Over the main vegetation phase, but only from spring to midsummer Give the plant organic fertilizer or special liquid hydrangea every one to two weeks. or Rhododendron fertilizer give.

Fertilizer recommendation in brief:

• Regular Fertilize Recommended for hydrangeas due to their high nutritional requirements
• From spring to July fertilize every 1-2 weeks, for example with special hydrangea or rhododendron fertilizer

Houseplant

Hydrangeas are also very easy to keep in the room - they are even extremely grateful plants for the interior culture, because they have no really different demands on the indoor climate than the Person. You will feel very comfortable at a comfortable living temperature of around 20 ° C - dry heating air is not particularly good for you, but it is not good for us either. Due to their generally strong thirst, you should water a hydrangea in the room all the more carefully. The soil must always remain moist, but you should still avoid waterlogging and do not leave any water in the coaster.
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frost

Many hydrangea species are conditionally frost hardy and can be overwintered outside. Depending on the variety, planting outdoors is therefore also quite possible. Nevertheless, the plants react quite clearly to the winter cold by freezing down relatively strongly. However, this is usually not a drama, because only the outer parts of the plant are affected. So the plant sprouts normally again in spring.

However, a certain protection against the cold is not a bad thing. Before the first frosts, surround the plant with fir branches or brushwood. You should also take the plant with you, especially if it comes to late frosts again in spring Garden fleece cover. This prevents buds that have already formed from freezing to death.

You should wrap hydrangeas in the tub together with the pot in jute and place them out of the wind. You are on the safe side if you place the bucket in a frost-free cold house.

Measures against frost damage:

• Hydrangeas are usually frost hardy, but protection is still recommended
• To prevent damage from the cold, cover with fir branches and / or garden fleece
• Wrap the tub hydrangeas well with jute or overwinter in a frost-free, cool place

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cut

The pruning care for hydrangeas depends on the species. The early-budding species such as the farmhouse hydrangea or plate hydrangea should be avoided - if you have them outdoors hibernated - in the end of winter or early spring from the frozen branches and leaves to free. Depending on the age, a clearing is necessary from time to time.

Species that only form buds in the course of spring, such as the ball or the Panicle hydrangea only last year's shoots are trimmed so that two eyes always remain.

Climbing hydrangeas should be rejuvenated every spring by removing at least the side shoots that have become too long. A more vigorous pruning of the shoots adhering to the climbing aid cannot do any harm, because it stimulates vigorous, vital new shoots and growth.

To ensure that the flowers are always fresh and abundant, you should always cut off the bloomed inflorescences as soon as possible.

To note:

• Remove old, frozen last year's shoots after winter - for farmhouse and plate hydrangeas in the end of winter or early spring, at ball or Panicle hydrangeas in mid spring
• Rejuvenate climbing hydrangeas every year in spring

Faded

The magnificent flowers of the hydrangea are pleasantly persistent. In addition, when individual inflorescences have faded, they still look very decorative and can be used as dry material for autumn bouquets. Of course, it is also worth cutting off to encourage flowering. It is cheaper than removing it with a cutting tool to break out the inflorescences on the stem, which is usually problem-free due to their dryness.
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mildew

Hydrangeas are unfortunately not completely insensitive to diseases. Especially the real one mildew can easily haunt them. You can recognize this fungus immediately by the floury, white, later grayish coatings on the flat leaves. These brown as the infection progresses and then dry up.

In the event of an infestation, you must remove and dispose of the diseased parts of the plant as soon as possible. Since the fungus is only preserved on living plants, it can easily be done on the compost. Then you should resort to a fungicide.

As a preventive measure, hydrangeas should be protected from waterlogging. A nitrogenous fertilizer is also useful to make the plant tissue more resistant. You can add a layer of mulch to the planting base - this ensures a more balanced soil environment in terms of temperature and moisture.
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Dried up

The hydrangea is not particularly easy to forgive neglecting the water supply. Even when there is an acute lack of water, it lets its leaves hang down. If it is forgotten for a long time in summer, the entire plant can eventually degenerate into a sad, brown bush. Fortunately, that usually doesn't mean that it has died. As a rule, it still has enough vital sap inside.

Check to see if the hydrangea is still alive by scratching the shoots and examining for a green, juicy interior. Start in the outer branch area and, if the search for greenery is unsuccessful, advance further into the interior of the bush. Usually a sign of life will show up at some point.

The first thing to do after this is of course to wash thoroughly. You can miss a diving cure for specimens kept in the bucket. In the following days, continue to water them thoroughly. However, waterlogging should also be avoided in this case.

The hydrangea often recovers very quickly when it comes to watering again, after just a few days. When the first fresh shoots appear, it is time to thoroughly remove the dried-up parts of the plant.
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If a hydrangea grows too big, it can be divided easily. However, the measure does require strength because of its compact root ball. The excavated or potted plant is best processed with a sharp, clean one saw. The reduced root ball should be dusted with charcoal powder before planting.
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tip

Not only the withered, dry inflorescences of the hydrangea are suitable as permanent, decorative and rustic natural ornament in the house. You can also use the flower clusters that are still in full bloom for decorative purposes - And not just in the form of fresh cut flowers for the vase, the beautiful sight of which quickly evaporated is.

If you simply dry inflorescences that are in bloom, they will lose a lot of their color. You can counteract this with the help of glycerine. Place the cut flower stems in a glass with 100 ml of glycerin on 200 ml of water and leave it absorb the mixture - when the capacity is exhausted, drops will appear on the bracts appear. Then you can take the flower out and let it dry - the one stored in the petals Glycerin maintains the color and can permanently add a splendid splash of color in the room grant.

Species and varieties

Farm hydrangea

This species is the absolute classic among the hydrangeas in the local garden culture. It is characterized by its magnificent inflorescences, which are often bred to form complete groups of flowers. With this type, the influence of the color by the pH value in the soil “works”.

For example, the “Endless Summer” group, within which there are numerous special breeds, is popular. While it was only available in white at the beginning, you now have a wide range of colors from soft pink tones to cool blue to bright raspberry pink, such as the “Summer Love” variant.

As the name suggests, you can look forward to a particularly long flowering period from May to late autumn with Endless Summer farm hydrangeas.

The farmer's hydrangea is extremely popular not only because of its magnificent, classic appearance, but also because of its comparatively low maintenance requirements. The most important thing is an extensive and regular water supply.

Climbing hydrangea

This form, which can climb house walls to great heights, still has original inflorescences, i.e. with fertile central flowers and only outside show flowers. Without a climbing aid, it can also be used as a ground cover. All types of climbing hydrangea bloom white, but there are also variants with small peculiarities: A very beautiful varieties are, for example, the snow-white "Semiola" or the "Silver Linig" with variegated leaves. Both varieties keep their green foliage in winter and can reach heights of up to 15 meters.

Oak-leaved hydrangea

This species stands out from the genus with its oak- or maple-like lobed foliage, which also turns very attractive in reddish tones in autumn. So apart from the heyday, it also offers a high jewelry value. Even with climbing hydrangeas, the flowers are still in their original state with a fertile center and a wreath of show flowers.

A very pretty variety is the "Snowflake" with white flowers and delicate accents in rose. It will bring a romantic freshness to the summer garden from July. In autumn there is another color spectacle due to the bright reddish discoloration of the leaves.

In terms of habit, the Snowflake is broadly bushy and upright and reaches a height of about 1.50 m. In winter it should be protected from frost with fir branches or jute.