A tutorial with all instructions

Green light for many types of cuts

A pronounced one Cut tolerance makes it possible to control the rapid and expansive growth of a wisteria. Even at a young age, the Asian growth rocket gives its gardener the green light for a strategic education. You keep adult wisteria in check with a maintenance cut in a double pack. Even the radical rejuvenation cut shows the wisteria balanced. So much tolerance for cutting encourages creative gardeners to educate them to be spectacular High trunk. All Types of cuts The following table summarizes the date recommendation:

Please only decide to plant a wisteria in your garden if you have sufficient time for pruning twice a year. Wisteria therefore comes with a vehement growth of up to 2 meters annually. The climbing artist can easily crush rain pipes, bend balcony railings and tear climbing aids out of their anchoring. Regular, strategically clever blending slows down growth, reduces weight and directs the mighty tendrils into a harmonious, balanced design.

Parenting cut - tailored to the pergola and trellis

After planting, it takes a few years for the wisteria to bloom for the first time. Wisteria grown from seeds sometimes take eight years to bloom. Those who do not want to be patient can plant refined varieties or varieties grown from cuttings. The young shrubs bloom earlier and more profusely. On the way to the first blooming period, the pruning care is dedicated to one tailor-made education. The goal is to build one Basic structurethat lasts a lifetime and carries the short blossom wood. Regardless of the type of growth chosen, it takes three to five years to erect the scaffolding.

The cut depends on whether you are raising the wisteria on a pergola or on a trellis as a facade greening. Direct growth in the right direction from the start. You can do this with a few, clearly defined scaffolding shoots, which you gradually extend over the first three to five years. A wisteria always attaches the flower buds for the next year in the summer of the previous year to the new shoots that sprout from the perennial scaffold shoots. Release the creeper without education grant, you quarrel with one within a few years impenetrable tangle from intertwined instincts. The professional training on the pergola and trellis is explained in more detail below:

Education on pergola and rose arch

• Select the two strongest shoots as future scaffold shoots
• Attachment to the climbing aid with plant binders
• Extend each scaffold shoot in February by a maximum of 100 centimeters
• Loosen the shoot extensions after the cut and tie them again

You extend the main shoot by about 1 meter per year. To do this, cut last year's growth in February down to the desired extension. Cut to a bud in a targeted manner at a short distance. In this way, you cause a sap build-up below the cut, which stimulates your wisteria to form side branches. After the upbringing, the pruning leads to a double maintenance pruning on the side branches, as explained in more detail in this tutorial.

Education on the wall trellis

• Attach wall trellis with a distance of at least 15 centimeters from the facade
• Determine the strongest instinct to be the leading instinct
• Shorten the main shoots to a height of 70 to 90 centimeters
• Apply scissors just above a strong one eye
• Remove all side shoots
• Fix the shortened guide shoot on the wall trellis

In the first summer of the upbringing phase, leave two side shoots that you attach to the wall trellis at an angle of 45 degrees. Cut off all remaining side shoots. You cut the main shoot itself every winter so that it becomes a maximum of 100 centimeters longer per year. Proportional to the increase in height, direct the next pair of side branches diagonally upwards in summer. Shorten all branches of the side shoots to 15 centimeters. All other shoots along the main shoot are removed. Use this strategy until the wisteria has enough branch pairs to fill the trellis. It is important to note that you boldly remove all superfluous side shoots so that a clear structure develops and the plant does not become too heavy for the supporting trellis.

Summer pruning slows growth

Two months after the end of flowering, it is high time to create order in the network of shoots of a wisteria and encourage the formation of new flower buds. As the illustration below illustrates, the side shoots are in the sights of the Loppers. How to do the perfect summer pruning:

• Cut back side shoots to a length of 30 to 50 centimeters
• Place scissors a few millimeters above an outward-facing bud
• Unwind trimmed shoots from the climbing aid and tie again
• In the following period, break out shoots sprouting from the interface in the green state by hand

For the summer pruning, please visualize the desired structure of a few leading branches with selected side shoots. When a guide branch has reached the desired length, trim the tip of the shoot as if it were a side shoot. Following the cut back mulch The soil with compost or bark humus.

If you prune wisteria in summer, growth will be slowed and budding will be encouraged. Shorten all of this year's side shoots to 30 to 50 centimeters.

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Remove water shoots promptly - tips about the unpopular type of instinct

Winter pruning promotes abundance of flowers

After the summer pruning, the wisteria will create flower buds for the next year. These are located at the base of shortened side shoots and are initially inconspicuous and hardly recognizable. That will change until late winter. From February, young swell Flower buds unmistakable and can be clearly distinguished from leaf and shoot buds. Between the end of January and the end of February / beginning of March, the optimal time window is open for the winter cut. As the illustration below demonstrates, the process facilitates professional cutting. How to do it right:

• First clear out all dead, weak or frozen branches
• Shoots already shortened in summer prune again except for 2 or 3 buds
• Shorten scaffold shoots with the desired final height to 10 centimeters from last year's increase
• Result: over the years the formation of thickened heads with valuable blossom wood

The thickened heads are the starting point for short shoots. The longed-for flower buds are located at the base of these short shoots. At least for 10 to 15 years, the thickening remains vital and spared from cutting measures. At the end of this time, these heads become overaged and with the help of a Derivation locally rejuvenated. Cut off flowering branches where a young short shoot branches off. If a dense, aged clump has formed, remove it completely.

Winter pruning requires a courageous approach. Cut back all of the side shoots from the previous year to 10 centimeters. If heads become old after 10 to 15 years, they are removed or diverted to young shoots close to the scaffolding.

Digression

The time of cutting affects the strength of the growth

Rejuvenate neglected wisteria

Let gardeners have a wisteria without cutting care grant, an impenetrable one emerges within a few years thicket with a few flower clusters. This is no reason to clear the Asian flower wonder. With a radical rejuvenation cut, you turn back time on your wisteria and rebuild the climbing plant. This is how the plan works:

• The best time is in late winter during the months of December to February
• Check wisteria for wintering animals before cutting and cut later if necessary
• Remove all branches except for two suitable scaffold shoots
• Shorten the side shoots along the remaining scaffold shoots to 10 centimeters
• The tips of the scaffold shoots lead to a young side shoot in the lower half

How deep you cut back the two remaining scaffold shoots depends largely on the type and variety. If you rejuvenate a refined wisteria, the refined point must not be removed. As a rule, the neuralgic point is about 50 centimeters high. If in doubt, please ask the nursery from which the plant came.

Rejuvenate wisteria in winter

A rejuvenating cut in summer is taboo. To protect breeding birds, this is prohibited Federal Nature Conservation Act basically radical cuts on all kinds of trees. The central one Closed season extends from 1. March to 30th September. Light maintenance cuts, such as the summer cut on wisteria, are exceptionally permitted because only this year's growth is cut. Radical measures such as rejuvenation and thinning are permitted by the legislature of 1 October to 28. February, if it is excluded in advance that wild animals overwinter in the wood.

A radical rejuvenation cut regulates the neglected care of the incision. Two scaffold shoots remain, the side shoots of which are cut back to 10 centimeters.

Education to the standard

A wisteria thrives as a strong-growing liana with thick branches that lead to the Tree trunk suitable. Over the years, the lignification progresses so intensely that a support is no longer required. Creative home gardeners take advantage of this property of wisteria to develop the climbing plant into a spectacular tree. A grafted young plant offers the best starting position because it flowers earlier and more profusely than a pure Wisteria species. How to proceed correctly step by step:

• Tie the strongest central shoot as a tree trunk to a support post
• For later braiding, select two or three strong ground shoots and fix them to a support
• Remove all remaining shoots
• Trunk shoots on the support pole lead to the desired height
• Only cut off the stem tip when the tip bud is enthroned 4 to 6 buds above the base of the crown
• Cut off side shoots below the crown at the base

An ideal wisteria high trunk thrives with a strong (optionally braided) trunk and a crown of four to six leading branches. Until a crown branch has reached the required diameter, use a strong wire to direct the growth in the desired direction and shape. During the training phase, cut off all side shoots seamlessly in order to promote growth in thickness. Only when a crown branch can bear the weight of short shoots and flower clusters can the wire be removed. The side shoots of the crown branches are pruned twice a year, as recommended for climbing plants. The only difference to be noted is the winter pruning. Do not shorten the side shoots that have already been trimmed in summer to 2 or 3 buds, but to 1 to 2 buds or a length of 5 centimeters.

Digression

Cutting wisteria with bypass or anvil scissors?

frequently asked Questions

Is the wisteria poisonous?

Wisteria contain various ingredients that are toxic to humans and animals. The bark and roots are permeated with toxic wistarin, which is absorbed through the skin. We strongly recommend wearing long-sleeved clothing and gloves when cutting. Lectin in pods and seeds can cause severe headaches after consumption, as well as vomiting, nausea and abdominal pain. If larger amounts get into the human organism, it can lead to circulatory collapse and cardiac arrest. Since the pods burst with a loud bang, they magically attract children. Therefore, wisteria is not recommended for the family garden.

Are there any differences between Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)?

Chinese wisteria conquers climbing aids as a left-winding climbing artist. The shoots of Wisteria sinensis thus wind counterclockwise. The up to 50 centimeters long, seductively scented panicles of flowers shine from May to June, even before the pretty pinnate leaves sprout. In contrast, a Japanese wisteria thrives as a right-winding climbing plant. Wisteria floribunda therefore winds clockwise. The wisteria species bloom between April and the beginning of June with 30 to 50 centimeter long flower clusters, while the leaves sprout at the same time. With regard to the care of the cut, however, the differences are not important.

Can you pull the wisteria up with a braided main trunk or does the plant then turn out again by itself? Do you need 2 wisteria next to each other for braiding?

The upbringing of wisteria with a braided main trunk is easily possible. Since the wisteria winds its way up, we recommend that you first let all the shoots grow upwards and then braid them. Regular pruning will provide a sufficient amount of shoots from the lower area to braid later. You can therefore get by with a wisteria.

Our pergola is not particularly large at 2.50 meters. Can I prune the wisteria so much every year that it stays correspondingly small?

You can easily do this by cutting twice a year. For the first time, prune the wisteria two months after flowering by shortening the side shoots to 30 to 50 centimeters. In February, the winter pruning is dedicated to the resulting new flower stems, which you cut down to 2 or 3 buds. At this point you can easily see the flower buds because they are noticeably swollen just before the start of budding.

Can I cultivate noble wisteria 'Pink Ice' in a bucket?

In general, keeping wisteria in buckets is not a problem, provided that important premises are taken into account. To ensure the supply of water and nutrients, the bucket volume should be at least 25 liters at the beginning. The size of the bucket must be adjusted in proportion to the growth. The larger you grow the wisteria, the larger the volume of the bucket should be. Ideally, repot a noble wisteria in connection with the winter pruning.

Is wisteria hardy and thrives in cool locations?

Winter weather with frost and snow can usually not harm a wisteria, as long as the location is sheltered from the wind. As a natural protection against cold and wet, we recommend underplanting evergreen ground cover, which shields the shallow root system of a wisteria. Severe late frost, however, can affect the young shoots and buds. If the meteorologists announce late frosts in April and May, cover a wisteria with fleece. To strengthen a robust winter hardiness, set the in August Fertilize please so that branches and twigs are well matured before the first frost.

What diameter should a climbing aid made of wood or round steel have to withstand the choking force of wisteria?

A wisteria chokes less than it does the carrier their climbing support rotates due to their looping growth. In the long run, wood has no chance of staying straight as a wall trellis for wisteria. In practice, a 10 x 10 centimeter post was twisted more than 90 degrees and ultimately broke through. With round steel there are better chances that the climbing aid will withstand. Solid steel with a diameter of 2 centimeters is recommended. Thick, stretched wire that is well anchored in the ground has proven itself. Once the scaffolding shoots of a wisteria are thick enough, they provide additional support.

The 3 most common mistakes

A blooming wisteria with a dense network of long whip shoots is hardly reminiscent of the magnificently flowering climbing plant from the nursery and garden center. The cause of the disappointing performance are classic mistakes in the care of the cut. In order for your wisteria to become a highlight in the garden, there are three common cutting mistakes you should avoid:

Home gardeners make another cutting error when transplanting a wisteria. The older the plant when changing location, the more root mass is lost. So that the mighty climbing plant compensates for the loss, all above-ground parts of the plant must be shortened by about half. The best time is in early spring, so that pruning removes a large part of this year's flower buds. If you do not cut back a transplanted wisteria by half for this reason, you will struggle with a weak, blooming plant or its total failure.

Tips

Wisteria does not only express its vigor above ground. In the sunny, nutrient-rich location, the magnificent climbing plant forms numerous, quite annoying runners. So that wisteria does not subdue the entire garden through this "back door", it should have one Root lock to be planted. A depth of 60 to 80 centimeters with a diameter of 100 to 120 centimeters is well suited.