Torch Lily: Planting, Cutting & Hibernating

Torch lilies are truly sun worshipers. The archetype Kniphofia uvaria she owes her nickname. We show how the rocket flower really takes off in your garden.

The torch lily (Kniphofia) shines in bright colors in the garden. Colored red, as the name suggests, it rises up like a torch on the bushy leaves. Their nectar is drinkable and is used in creams and ointments. The torch lily is also popular with bees and butterflies because of this nectar. It is important to note their limited winter hardiness. It survives the winter best in mild locations and in front of protected south walls. What else you need to know for planting and care is explained here.

Torch lily: origin and characteristics

Torch lilies, also known under the name rocket flower, represent a genus of plants from Africa within the family of the Affodilla plants (Asphodeloideae). Many of them are likely to have another member of this family, namely the Real aloe (Aloe vera), be known. Her natural location offers her a Mediterranean climate under blazing sun. From the coast up to the low and high mountains, it thrives on grassy slopes and on the banks of creeks. In the cold months it stands in soaked soil that is always supplied with fresh oxygen. In summer, when the water supply runs dry, the moderately nutritious silicate rock becomes quite dry. Due to the water resources, the torch lily has its main growth phase in its home in the damp winter and spring, whereas it rests in the dry summer phase. In our latitudes, the flowering time shifts to summer.

Now to its external shape: The torch lily forms clumps. Many of the narrow, long and keeled leaves are therefore close to each other and form a so-called eyrie. The stem axes, on which several brightly colored flower candles are enthroned, usually protrude from these about a meter high. On these 15 to 30 cm long racemose inflorescences, the upper flowers are often red in color and turn yellow towards the bottom, sometimes they are also white or green. The flowering time of the torch lily is between June and October, depending on the variety, and lasts a very long time, as the flowering unfolds from bottom to top.

The herbaceous plants form horizontal rhizomes that allow them to survive. Thus, torch lilies are perennial. Some species are evergreen. For many, however, the above-ground parts of the plant die off in winter, so the leaves turn brown.

The most beautiful torch lily varieties and species

About 150 Kniphofia-Types are known. Breeding has also given rise to numerous hybrids and varieties. We are now introducing some types and varieties to you:

• Kniphofia uvaria: Flowers red to yellow, 50 to 120 cm high, original torch lily from which today's crossbreeds arose. There are also mixtures of varieties of this type, such as the Grandiflora mixture
• Kniphofia uvaria‘Papaya Popsicle’: Flowers vigorously in salmon pink, apricot with flowers, up to 50 cm high
• Kniphofiauvaria‘Ice Queen’: White flowers with a height of 100 to 120 cm

• Kniphofiauvaria"Green Jade": Blossom white-green, fading greenish-white, 100 to 120 cm high
• Kniphofia hybrid "Royal Standard": Yellow-orange-red course of the flower, height from 80 to 100 cm
• Kniphofia hybrid 'Vanilla': Flowers bright yellow, 90 to 100 cm high
• Kniphofiauvaria‘Saffron Bird’: Orange-pink flowers, salmon-pink to cream-colored, 90 cm high

• Kniphofia hybrid ‘Fire candle’: Flower red and orange, 60 to 70 cm high
• Kniphofia galpinii‘St. Gallen ': Blooms in orange with a height of 60 to 80 cm. It is frost hardier than other species

Planting torch lily: location, accompanying plants and Co.

In our latitudes, the climatic conditions - as described at the beginning - do not really meet the needs of the Kniphofia corresponding. That's why she has to adjust her rhythm a little and go with the flow, so to speak. With us, she also takes her resting phase in winter instead of summer - that is an impressive adaptation.

The perfect location for torch lilies in the garden is in full sun, protected from the wind on a very permeable and loose soil. A deep, well-draining gravel substrate is ideal. If this is too much effort for you, the existing soil should at least be loosened well before planting and mixed with a lot of sand. In addition, it is important that the soil is moderately rich in humus and nutrients with a pH between 6.5 and 8. It should be dry to fresh, but never dry out completely. More should be poured in summer. Finally, it is important that there is sufficient water available during the main growth phase. Short drying times can be coped with if necessary, but lead to growth delays. To avoid dehydration, it is advisable to mulch the area around the plants. For example, ours is suitable for this Plantura organic pine bark. This consists of 100% renewable raw materials from the EU, promotes a natural look and suppresses weed growth. In addition, the torch lily can be piled up in winter as winter protection.

It is best to plant torch lilies in spring, after the ice saints, to avoid damage from late frosts. It often fails to grow in autumn. After planting, torch lilies still need to be protected from frost as they are not reliably hardy. In winter, waterlogged soils and cold, unprotected locations are absolutely unsuitable.

The torch lily is planted in the bed with a planting distance of 60 cm, so that there is space for two specimens in one square meter. The most appealing picture is achieved with one to three, a maximum of five plants in the bed. The leaf rosette - that is, where the leaves sprout from the stem axis, close together - should be close to the ground and parallel to the surface of the earth, but never below the ground level.

Care should also be taken to choose a location in the vicinity of which excavation work does not have to be carried out constantly. The thick, yellow roots of the torch lily grow in bundles, tapering to the sides and would otherwise be injured.

Overview - Preferred location of the torch lily:

• Planting after the ice saints
• Full sun, if possible 6 hours a day or more
• Well drained, loose soil
• Moderately rich in humus and nutrients
• Moderately dry to fresh
• Protect against dehydration by mulching
• Sheltered location on a warm south side
• Avoid digging in the immediate vicinity

From a distance, large groups of rocket flowers impress with their unique look. The perennials come into their own in the company of tall grasses or ornamental perennials. There are no limits to the imagination, as long as the location requirements are shared. In addition to plants such as asters (aster) However, torch lilies don't like it.

Examples of suitable companion plants:

Grasses: Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), Tender feather grass (Stipa tenuissima)

Flowering plants: Beard iris (Iris barbata), Daylilies (Hemerocallis), Montbretia (Crocosmia), Palm lily (yucca), Allium (allium), beard thread (Penstemon), Indian nettle (Monarda didyma), Catnip (Nepeta cataria), Mullein (Verbascum), Lavender (Lavendula), Perovskia (Perovskia), Dahlias (Dahlia), Globe thistle (Echinops sp.), girl eyes (Coreopsis), Yarrow (Achillea), sun bride (Helenium), Lilies (Lilium), Gypsophila (Gypsophila)

Torch lilies in the pot:

In terms of the low winter hardiness, planting the torch lily in a pot is an advantage over planting beds. After all, the pot can quickly be brought into the protective four walls and also warm up quickly in spring. Since there is only a very limited space available for the roots of the torch lily in the pot, the substrate should be rich in nutrients from the start, but also particularly structurally stable. We therefore recommend our Plantura organic compost. Over time, it releases more nitrogen and also contains a lot of phosphate and potassium oxide, which promote stable growth and neat flower formation. Since the torch lily in the pot quickly threatens waterlogging in pure earth, a sufficient drainage layer must be integrated. It is therefore important to add coarse-grained ingredients such as expanded clay, sand or gravel. A mixing ratio of 60% Plantura organic compost and 40% structural materials is excellent. You should put a layer of mulch on top to keep the torch lily evenly moist in the pot.

One or two young plants fit into a pot that holds at least 1 L, and two or three if it is over 2 L. Correspondingly, there is space for more plants in an even larger container. The upper part of the seedling must not be buried in the substrate here either, but must protrude a good 5 cm. The young plants have to be separated in 5 liter pots as early as the next year, otherwise it will be too tight for them. A fully grown torch lily needs a large, wide bucket with a volume of 20 liters.

Proper care of the torch lily

The torch lily is quite easy to care for as it rarely needs to be cut. In winter you should tie up the tufts of leaves from evergreen species. As with all plants, over-fertilization should be avoided. The following applies to irrigation: Avoid waterlogging and dehydration. Torch lilies cause problems because the wind sticks their flowers together and lets them dry out.

Cut the torch lily

The torch lily should only be cut back in spring. Inflorescences and old leaves can then be removed to a height of about a hand's breadth above the ground. In general, when cutting, always use clean and sharp tools to avoid infections.

Fertilizing, watering and co.

The following are part of perfect care for the torch lily:

Fertilize Kniphofia in the bed:
the Kniphofia has a medium fertilizer requirement. We therefore recommend adding compost or slow release fertilizer in the spring before flowering. Our Plantura organic flower fertilizer is ideal for this. With its high potassium content, our fertilizer supports sufficient water absorption and transfer, which is essential in a sunny location. Furthermore, the plant can strengthen its tissue and so survive the cold winter better. Potassium is also important for flower development. Nitrogen and phosphorus and trace elements are also contained in the right amount and support the growth of the torch lily.

Fertilize torch lily in the pot:
As a pot culture, the rocket flower must be fertilized more often. For this, the layer of mulch must be pushed aside and our Plantura organic flower fertilizer be applied underneath and cast on. The ration should be refreshed every three months. Please do not try to work the fertilizer into the deeper layers of the earth with your fingers or a fork. The risk of damaging the roots in the process is simply too high. Then sprinkle the mulch over it again. The fertilization takes place from April to October.

The torch lily isn't blooming?

• The torch lily is too young: In the first year after planting, it is common for the torch lily not to develop flowers. For plants grown from seeds, it can take as much as 3 years to flower for the first time.
• If an established torch lily does not bloom, this can indicate a nutritional deficiency. If phosphorus and potash are not available to the plant in sufficient quantities, no flower can develop. Appropriate fertilization can solve the problem.
• An unsuitable location, i.e. too cold, shady or wet, can also be the reason for a lack of flowering.

Pouring Kniphofia:
The torch lily does not tolerate waterlogging, especially not after it has faded. Drying out should also be avoided. However, the substrate can easily dry out between the casting processes. It is best to water the slightly dried-on soil in the morning or in the evening.

Transplant torch lily:
Transplanting is possible in spring, but the torch lily does not tolerate it well. Occasionally, however, it is necessary when the location proves unsuitable. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the rhizomes. Transplanting can be used directly for division. You can find out more about this below.

How do I care for a torch lily?

• Fertilize bed culture once in April
• Fertilize the pot culture every 3 months from April to October
• Water sufficiently, avoid waterlogging and dehydration
• Rather avoid transplanting
• Cut back old leaves in spring

Is the torch lily hardy?

Torch lilies are conditionally hardy. They are assigned to the winter hardiness zone Z7 and can therefore withstand temperatures of a maximum of - 17.8 ° C. However, some winter protection measures are required.

The flower wilts towards autumn, but stops. It should also not be removed until the next spring, as it offers a little protection over the winter. The leaves should also remain standing and can be loosely tied together. A loose covering with spruce branches, leaves or fir twigs is also a good frost protection. Care must be taken to ensure that no moisture accumulates under the cover, as otherwise rot is favored. Winter hardiness is reduced if nitrogen fertilization is too strong or too late. Care must therefore be taken to stop fertilizing by autumn at the latest.
Potted plants can be overwintered in a light to partially shaded spot at cool temperatures of 5 to 10 ° C. They tolerate light night frosts. You will also find safe in our separate article hardy perennialsthat will decorate your garden all year round.

Multiplication of the Kniphofia

To increase the Kniphofia can be resorted to seeds or the rhizome can be divided. After successful fertilization, the Kniphofia Seeds in small, green, globular capsule fruits. After a while, the fruits turn brown and open. Then it is time to remove the germinable seeds. They can be used for propagation on the windowsill from February. The seeds of the torch lily need a period of exposure to the cold to germinate. In technical jargon one speaks of stratification. Seeds you have collected yourself can be stored in a bag in the refrigerator until spring. The seeds should be stored at an average temperature of 5 ° C for six to eight weeks.

The seeds are light germs, so they must not be covered with soil when sowing. At a temperature of at least 15 ° C, the seeds of the rocket flower will take off after around two to three weeks. The potting soil must always be kept moist during this time, as the seeds must not dry out under any circumstances. A covered nursery pot can meet these requirements. It is best to keep the young rocket flowers in a greenhouse for the first year to protect them from snails. From the second year they can then go outdoors.

Overview - growing torch lily from seeds:

• If you need cold: store at 5 ° C for 6 to 8 weeks
• Preculture in the house from February or direct sowing from April
• Light germ: do not cover with soil
• keep soil moistured
• Temperature: 15 ° C
• Duration: 2 - 3 weeks
• 1. Recommended year in the greenhouse

Another possibility of propagation is the division of the clumps. This can be done in April. To do this, the rhizome must first be exposed, the flower shoots cut away completely and the leaves of the torch lily shortened to around 15 cm. The roots can also be shortened to encourage new growth.
The next step is to divide the rhizomes that have been freed from the earth. For a pot culture, small, around 5 cm wide sections are required, for beds as large as possible. They should be cut with a sharp and clean knife. It is recommended that each section has several visible "eyes", that is, drive systems. To disinfect the interfaces, they can be dipped in charcoal powder and covered with a damp cloth so that they do not dry out.

Then the rhizomes can be buried again in suitable locations in planting holes with a little organic fertilizer. Make sure that the roots are facing down and the shoots are facing up.

Overview - increase torch lily by dividing:

• Time: April
• Expose the plant
• Shorten the leaves and flower stems
• Remove soil from the rhizome
• For potting, divide the rhizome into pieces approx. 5 cm wide
• Separate the rhizome into as large parts as possible for bedding
• Plant the rhizome pieces the right way round with some flower fertilizer

Is the torch lily poisonous?

No, the torch lily is not poisonous. It does not pose a threat to humans or animals, everyone can enjoy the beauty of the magnificent rocket flower without worries.

We are not the only ones who like the radiant flowers of the torch lily. Insects also love to feed on their nectar. If you want to offer bees and co. An even bigger buffet in your garden, you should read our article about bee-friendly perennials read into it.